https://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/api.php?action=feedcontributions&user=Quatermass&feedformat=atomThe Aquarium Wiki - User contributions [en]2024-03-28T19:11:26ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.29.2https://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Youtube&diff=83244Youtube2017-06-11T20:58:59Z<p>Quatermass: Reverted edits by CKJRene5380170 (talk) to last revision by PsiPro</p>
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<div>#REDIRECT [[Help:Contents/Images and media/Adding A YouTube Video]]</div>Quatermasshttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Walstad_method&diff=78662Walstad method2014-11-04T22:03:06Z<p>Quatermass: /* Soil types */</p>
<hr />
<div>== What is the Walstad Method? ==<br />
[[Image:Five Litre Walstad tank.jpg|thumb|right|5 Litre Walstad tank set up in one day with fish]]<br />
<br />
This method of setting up an aquarium tank was made popular by [[Diana Walstad]], author of the book 'ECOLOGY of the PLANTED AQUARIUM - A Practical Manual and Scientific Treatise for the Home Aquarist'.<br />
<br />
*Basically it's a natural planted tank with a substrate containing a soil underlayer.<br />
<br />
== Alternative names ==<br />
El Natural, NPT (Natural Planted Tank), Walstad Tank.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Principles ==<br />
Provide an ecosystem where plants and fish balance each other's needs. The soil underlayer ensures that plants grow well enough to out-compete algae and recycle fish waste and toxins (e.g., ammonia, nitrite, etc.). Without soil, plants don't grow well enough to do "their job".<br />
<br />
== Aims ==<br />
* Good plant growth<br />
* No injected CO2 required<br />
* No or little algae<br />
* No need for plant fertilizers<br />
* Supplies [[trace elements]] for fish health<br />
* Stable environment for your pets<br />
* No need to vacuum the substrate<br />
* No need for frequent water changes—once the tank is established<br />
* A smell-free tank.<br />
* Biofilter may not be required (plants will take care of the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate, and the soil bacteria will also consume nitrogen).<br />
<br />
== Principle steps ==<br />
<br />
[[Image:3 Litre Walstad Tank.jpg|thumb|right|3 Litre Walstad tank set up in one day with shrimp]]<br />
<br />
* 1&nbsp;inch layer of inexpensive, generic potting soil (or "top soil") available from any garden centres or various home improvement stores. ([[Wikipedia:John Innes Compost|John Innes]] number 3 recipe is ideal). Avoid soils containing chemical fertilizers (sulphates and nitrates will be converted to toxic H2S and nitrite after soil is submerged). Phosphate and calcium fertilizers (i.e., a little bone meal mixed with soil) may be beneficial. Get non-sterile 'aquatic pond soil' if it's available.<br />
[[Image:John Innes front.jpg|thumb|Soil based compost - John Innes #3]]<br />
* 1&nbsp;inch of medium fine gravel (or very shallow layer of sand) to cover the soil layer (the soil bacteria need oxygen, so don't smother the soil layer with rocks, driftwood, etc)<br />
<br />
* If you have soft-water, you can mix in a calcium source (lime, coral gravel, shells, bone meal, etc) with the soil to make sure plants get enough calcium, GH for their initial set-up.<br />
<br />
* For tank set-up, start out with many species of fast-growing plants (you want to find the ones that adapt best to your tank's conditions). Examples: ''[[Hygrophila corymbosa]]'', ''[[Shinnersia riv.]]'', ''[[Rotala rotundifolia]]'', ''[[Ludwigia repens]]'', ''[[Limnophila sessiliflora]]'', [[Hornwort]], [[Riccia]], etc.<br />
<br />
* Provide adequate lighting. This should be at least 2W per US Gallon (3.8L) of fluorescent lighting over the length of the tank for a period of at least 10 hours a day. 'Cool white' tubes are usually all that is required. If you can position the tank so that it can get a little sunlight for at least an hour a day, then do so (make sure water doesn't overheat). Diana recommends a mid-day siesta <ref> [http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/el-natural/67271-lighting-siesta-co2.html Diana's original post about the siesta photoperiod]</ref>, and uses a 5 hour on, 4 hours off, 5 hours on photoperiod on her own tanks. The dark period allows CO2 levels to rise which promotes plant growth and inhibits algae growth.<br />
<br />
* Add room temperature conditioned (no [[chlorine]] or [[chloramine]]) water. Or add water conditioner right away.<br />
<br />
* Provide enough water movement (via filters, power-heads, etc) to keep the water safely oxygenated for fish and soil bacteria. (Keeping water safely oxygenated is especially important the first two months with a freshly submerged soil). Water circulation near the water surface will break up possible [[bio-film]] development.<br />
<br />
* Test water every two days for [[pH]], [[ammonia]], [[nitrite]] and [[nitrate]] (for at least two months or until you are sure they have gone). There may be a temporary increase in these levels while the soil is getting established (first 2 months), especially if the soil was artificially fertilized. Consider the use of [[Prime]] or [[Amquel]] daily to remove any potential [[total ammonia]] that may develop in the initial two months.<br />
<br />
* If there are signs of algae, temporarily reduce lighting levels slightly or add floating plants. Main goal is to get plants growing well enough to out-compete algae.<br />
<br />
* Do water changes as needed [some soils often require frequent water changes the first two months to remove miscellaneous toxins (e.g., wood oils) released by the soil. Also, new soils invariably release algae-stimulating nutrients (Nitrogen) the first couple months.] After tank is established, water changes can be very infrequent.<br />
<br />
* You can add aquatic animals same day after set-up, but closely monitor fish health. It may be necessary (though unusual) during this "soil break-in period" to do some water changes to lower tannins. Some people use [[activated carbon]] in the filter if you wish to remove any yellow tannin effect (but realise these tannins are a health benefit to the tank animals.<br />
<br />
* Monitor ammonia/nitrite levels for the first month. If you get any level above zero, act on them - perform a 25% water change! However if you add [[Prime]] or [[AmQuel Plus|AmQuel+]] daily for a month, you'll protect the tank occupants against any possible harm from ammonia/nitrite and eliminate this chore.<br />
<br />
== Result ==<br />
* Soil naturally contains nitrifying bacteria that will process and detoxify ammonia and nitrite. It also contains denitrifying bacteria that will process and remove nitrates.<br />
<br />
* Plants will consume ammonia and nitrite, which they prefer to nitrates.<br />
<br />
* The soil will release Carbonates (CO<sub>2</sub>) into the water that will greatly stimulate plant growth and stabilise [[KH]]. No [[Old Tank Syndrome]].<br />
<br />
* Fish waste ([[Mulm]]) and uneaten fish food will be quickly converted by soil bacteria into its component chemical parts so that plants can use them for their nutritional needs.<br />
<br />
* Substrate with a soil under-layer should last many years (~10 years), because fish and plant waste will continuously replenish the nutrients that plants extract from the soil. No need to add fertilisers for years.<br />
<br />
* The substrate releases [[trace elements]] that fish require for health therefore reduces need for water changes for this reason.<br />
<br />
== Fine-Tuning ==<br />
* Trim the plants back as required and adjust the amount of light on the tank for fine tuning. More light, more plant growth, less algae.<br />
<br />
* Consider adding small snails as these speed up the mulm breakdown. But not essential.<br />
<br />
* You'll need a water hardness ([[GH]]) of greater than 7d. To raise GH you can add [[coral gravel]] or clean sea shells and let them slowly dissolve. However, adding a 4:1 mixture of calcium chloride and magnesium sulphate is one way to get the GH up immediately without increasing the pH.<br />
<br />
*[[KH]] should never drop below 6°d with a Walstad tank, the bacteria in the soil generates natural KH. <br />
<br />
* Add slower growing plants like ''Hydrocotyle verticillata'' and ''Anubias'' once the fast-growing plants are established.<br />
<br />
* Test your [[nitrate]] levels monthly (or sooner after adding fish) to ensure that nitrate levels are not rising too high (ie > 50&nbsp;mg/l). If it does, you're probably <br />
got too many fish or are feeding them too much.<br />
<br />
* Replace the lighting tubes every 9–12 months (compact fluorescent lights can go on considerably longer).<br />
<br />
== Challenges ==<br />
<br />
*Some people have difficulty uprooting and moving plants once water has been added to the tank. The main thing is to turn off the powerhead during this time so that soil particles are allowed to settle. The soil particles in a healthy, well-established aquarium should settle within an hour or two. [That's because soil bacteria have "glued" the soil particles together with their polysaccharide mucus.]<br />
<br />
* Avoid disturbing the gravel during water changes, etc. One can place a dish or other flat object on the gravel to keep water additions from disturbing the soil layer.<br />
<br />
* Fish load depends on plant growth, tank's surface area, and water movement/aeration. Tanks with more fish provide plants with more nutrients and CO2. Conversely, tanks with robust plant growth can hold more fish. Often, the limiting factor is water oxygenation. For example, one can increase the fish load by simply increasing water movement and water oxygenation.<br />
<br />
* If you wish to increase the number of fish in the tank (or you've added too many), add a normal biological filter. This will supplement the nitrification process performed by the soil.<br />
<br />
==Soil types==<br />
Diana Walstad has recommended the garden soil 'Scotts Lawn Care - Miracle Grow Organic Choice Potting Soil' as sold in USA and UK.<ref>[http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/el-natural/62430-topsoil-reddish-yellow-water.html#post473381 Diana Walstad soil recommendation on Aquatic Plant Central - El Natural forum]</ref><br />
<br />
*USA - [http://www.scotts.com/ Scotts Lawn Care] - [http://www.scotts.com/smg/search/gSrchResults.jsp?newsearch=Hyponex&x=9&y=9 Hyponex] Potting Soil.<br />
*USA - [http://www.scotts.com/ Scotts Lawn Care] - [http://www.scotts.com/smg/catalog/productTemplate.jsp?proId=prod70332&itemId=cat50154 Miracle Grow Potting Soil].<br />
*USA - [http://www.scotts.com/ Scotts Lawn Care] - [http://www.scotts.com/smg/catalog/productTemplate.jsp?proId=prod70318&itemId=cat80014 Miracle Grow Organic Choice Potting Soil].<br />
*UK - [http://www.miraclegro.com Miracle-Gro] - Organic Choice All Purpose Peat Free Compost.<br />
*UK - [http://www.miraclegro.com Miracle-Gro] - Organic Choice Premium Garden Soil<br />
*UK - [http://www.william-sinclair.co.uk/gardening/products/compost J. Arthur Bower's] - John Innes No.3 Soil-based compost<br />
*UK - J. Arthur Bower's - Aquatic Compost.<br />
*UK - [http://www.lovethegarden.com/product-details/levington-john-innes-no3-compost-25litre Scotts Levington] - John Innes No.3 Compost<br />
<br />
*'Scotts Lawn Care Miracle Grow' is known as 'Scotts Miracle-Gro' in the UK.<br />
<br />
*Tip - look for soil marked as having a pH of ~6.0-7.0 if possible. Test the soil pH or ask the manufacturer if necessary. Avoid heavy manure-based soils. Avoid 'Ericaceous Compost' as it may be too acidic. Try not to use soil with peat in it as it may be too acidic. Try not to use soil with wood shaving as it may cause more organic breakdown and lots of tannins being released.<br />
<br />
*The name 'John Innes' is actually a recipe for soil. See [http://www.johninnes.info/about.htm John Innes Manufacturers' Association] for more info.<br />
<br />
==Suggested Plants==<br />
Diana Walstad recommended the following plants in her interview with aquariss.net<br />
<br />
=== Fast, quick growth ===<br />
* Amazon Swordplant (Echinodorus bleheri)<br />
* Echinodorus major<br />
* Pygmy Chain Sword (Echinodorus tenellus)<br />
* Echinodorus "Ozelot"<br />
* Dwarf Sag (Sagittaria subulata)<br />
* Grass-leaved Arrowhead (Sagittaria graminae )<br />
<br />
===Take longer to establish but then grow well===<br />
* Anubias nana<br />
* Cryptocoryne wendtii<br />
* Cryptocoryne balansaea<br />
* Java Fern<br />
<br />
===Best floating plants for me have been===<br />
* Water Sprite (Ceratopteris thalictroides)<br />
* Frog Bit (Limnobium laevigatum)<br />
<br />
===These stem plants have always done well===<br />
* Bacopa monnieri (waterhyssop, brahmi, thyme-leafed gratiola, water hyssop, herb of grace, Indian pennywort)<br />
* Rotala rotundifolia<br />
<br />
==Who is Diana Walstad?==<br />
Diana lives in North Carolina, USA and is technical advisor for the [http://www.aquatic-gardeners.org/ AGA] (Aquatic Gardeners Association).<br />
<br />
==References==<br />
<references/><br />
<br />
== Links ==<br />
<br />
*See also [[MS]] - Mineralised soil.<br />
<br />
===Articles===<br />
*[http://thegab.org/Articles/PottedPlants.html How to: Pot Aquarium Plants in Topsoil by Betty Harris]<br />
*[http://web.archive.org/web/20100124200526/http://www.aquabotanic.com/diana_walstad_gallery.htm Diana Walstad Gallery] (Archived link)<br />
*[http://web.archive.org/web/20080111195719/http://www.aquabotanic.com/plants_and_biological_filtration.htm PLANTS and BIOLOGICAL FILTRATION by Diana Walstad] (Archived link)<br />
*[https://web.archive.org/web/20111107023545/http://www.aquabotanic.com/?p=175 Interview with Diana Walstad] (Archived link)<br />
*[https://web.archive.org/web/20111113173825/http://www.aquabotanic.com/?p=460 Setting up a Walstad Natural planted tank] (Archived link)<br />
<br />
===Book===<br />
*[http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/0967377315/ Diana's book - Amazon UK]<br />
*[http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0967377315/ Diana's book - Amazon USA]<br />
*[http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/0967377315 Diana's book - Amazon GER]<br />
* Electronic version of book available from - [http://www.atlasbooks.com/marktplc/00388.htm Atlas Books]<br />
===Forums===<br />
*[http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/el-natural/26390-6-gallon-hex-npt.html Guide to setting up a Walstad plant tank]<br />
*[http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/el-natural/26458-what-is-el-natural-step-step.html What is "el-natural"? Step-by-step]<br />
*[http://thegab.org/Articles/WalstadTank.html Setting up a Walstad Natural Planted Tank. By Betty Harris]<br />
*[http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/el-natural/31423-mind-boggles.html Some issues with soil in a NPT]<br />
*[http://thegab.org/Articles/WalstadTankDemo.html Setting up a Walstad-Type Natural Planted Tank by Betty Harris]<br />
<br />
*[http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/el-natural/ Diana's El Natural forum]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Articles]]<br />
[[Category:Aquarium Designs]]<br />
[[Category:Glossary - Plants]]</div>Quatermasshttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Excel&diff=78502Excel2014-10-15T16:04:39Z<p>Quatermass: /* Nitrogen */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Image:Seachemlogo3D.png|250px|right]]<br />
[[Image:Flourish Excel 500 mL.jpg|thumb|right]]<br />
<br />
'''Excel''' is the shorted name for a very popular commercial product called Flourish Excel made by [[Seachem]].<br />
<br />
This product is a bottle of liquid which provides a ready available source of organic [[Carbon]] for aquatic plants and can be used as a [[CO2]] substitute. This causes extra plant growth and less algae.<br />
<br />
*If overdosed it may kill shrimp, fish, etc.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Ingredients==<br />
Polycycloglutaracetal - A form of Glutaraldehyde (C5H8O2) a potent disinfectant. <br />
<br />
==Side effects==<br />
<br />
===Algaecide===<br />
<br />
It's been noticed that even at recommended doses Excel kills of algae, and is popularly used to kill some species of Algae like [[Hair Algae]] at 2-3x the recommended dosage. However this is not with the manufacturer's recommendation.<br />
<br />
===Nitrogen===<br />
<br />
Some Excel users have noticed a rise in nitrites or nitrates after introduction. Seachem's position is Excel shouldn't affect the nitrogen cycle of an aquarium, but there are online reports of this happening. (Possibly due to the product killing off algae).<br />
<br />
===Invertebrates===<br />
<br />
Excel is reportedly hard on Invertebrates.<br />
<br />
==Obtaining Excel==<br />
This product is widely available from the better local aquarium shops.<br />
<br />
It is considerably more expensive outside of the USA due to export and shipping costs.<br />
<br />
Some retailers selling Excel outside the USA.<br />
*[http://www.aquaessentials.co.uk/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=1&keyword=Seachem+Flourish+Excel Aqua Essentials UK]<br />
*[http://www.aquatics-online.co.uk/searchresults.asp?a=s&s=Seachem+Excel Aquatics Online UK]<br />
*[http://aqua.seachem.com/SDLocator/process_dealer_search.php?Address=EH54&Distance=800&Category=&my_search_button.x=16&my_search_button.y=14&my_search_button=search Seachem's Dealers in the UK]<br />
<br />
== Links ==<br />
*[http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/FlourishExcel.html Seachem Flourish Excel]<br />
*[http://fins.actwin.com/aquatic-plants/month.200604/msg00037.html APD Excel Discussions]<br />
*[http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/algae-specific-problems/3806-flourish-excel-got-rid-of-all.html APC Discussions on alternatives to Excel]<br />
*[https://web.archive.org/web/20050321082535/http://www.unisondc.co.uk/glut_yde.pdf Glutaraldehyde - Health and Safety] (Archived Link)<br />
*[http://www.oscarfish.com/article-home/equipment/114-buyer-beaware-seachem-excel.html Buyer BeAware]: SeaChem Excel, a personal account of Excel's effect on nitrate.<br />
<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]<br />
[[Category:Plant food]]</div>Quatermasshttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=User:N1ywb&diff=78331User:N1ywb2014-09-17T20:40:14Z<p>Quatermass: Created page with "Hi there, I altered the reference link and it seems to pass the Spam bot test. Maybe create a little user page as that helps ensure you are a real person. I'm a great Walstad fan..."</p>
<hr />
<div>Hi there,<br />
I altered the reference link and it seems to pass the Spam bot test.<br />
Maybe create a little user page as that helps ensure you are a real person.<br />
I'm a great Walstad fan myself.<br />
<br />
--[[User:Quatermass|Quatermass]] 20:40, 17 September 2014 (UTC)</div>Quatermasshttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Calcium_carbonate&diff=78165Calcium carbonate2014-08-28T22:25:47Z<p>Quatermass: /* Notes */</p>
<hr />
<div>==What is it?==<br />
'''Calcium carbonate''' ({{CaCO3}}) is a chemical compound. It is commonly used medically as a calcium supplement or as an antacid. It is also a common substance found as rock (like marble) in all parts of the world and so is often found in nature dissolved in water which flows over these rocks. It is therefore the principle cause of hard water.<br />
<br />
{{CaCO3}} is the main building block of seashells and the shell of snails and all shrimps. So [[Coral sand]] is mostly {{CaCO3}}.<br />
<br />
==Sources==<br />
This compound is sold over the counters at shops for health reasons, cooking or for hardening water for swimming pools. Gardening shops sell 'Garden Lime' or Limestone in the form of fine powder for mixing with soil to increase the [[pH]].<br />
<br />
<br />
It is used in aquariums as a principle method to increase the general hardness ([[GH]]) of the water (and to a degree [[KH]]). Many plants, aquatic species require a level of hardness in the water to build their bones and external body parts.<br />
For example aquatic [[snails]] need a [[GH]] of at least {{d|8|10}} to stop their outer casing from dissolving into the water and killing the animal.<br />
<br />
{{CaCO3}} is only slowly soluble in water and as it dissolves, KH and GH increases. So it can take a few days to dissolve depending on the pH of the water. As it dissolves, pH increases therefore reducing the dissolving rate. (If the pH is above 7 then the dissolve rate will be slow). <br />
The surface area of the material will determine the speed of dissolving. So smaller pieces dissolve faster.<br />
<br />
*When you add CaCO3 to water, it reacts with any acids present and binds with free H+ ions to form [[Calcium bicarbonate]], or Ca(HCO3)2 and thus reduces the count of free H+ ions which raises the pH.<br />
<br />
==Types available==<br />
In order of dissolving rate. Fastest first.<br><br />
<br />
Limestone Powder, Indigestion tablets, Coral Sand, Coral Gravel, Cuttle Bone, Sea Shells.<br />
<br />
==Notes==<br />
*See [[Calcium bicarbonate]] or [[Dolomite]] for an alternative material.<br />
<br />
*See the [[GH]] page for more on 'General Hardness'.<br />
<br />
*See the [[KH]] page on 'Karbonate Hardness'.<br />
<br />
==Raising GH==<br />
Two [[teaspoons]] (about 4&nbsp;grams) of calcium carbonate per {{gal|50}} of water will increase both General Hardness ([[GH]]) and Carbonate Hardness ([[KH]]) by approximately 1 degree.<ref>[http://www.tropica.com/article.asp?type=aquaristic&id=461 Tropica on raising GH in soft water aquariums]</ref><br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
Image:Garden_Lime.jpg|Garden Lime box<br />
Image:Garden_Lime2.jpg|Interior of the box<br />
Image:Coral_sand.jpg|Coral Sand<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Links ==<br />
*[[w:Calcium carbonate|Wikipedia]]<br />
*[http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/CO2/khgh.html Water hardness]<br />
*[http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/el-natural/49885-calcium-carbonate-raise-kh.html Calcium carbonate raising KH]<br />
<br />
==References==<br />
<references/><br />
<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]<br />
[[Category:Plant food]]<br />
[[Category:Water conditioners]]</div>Quatermasshttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Dolomite&diff=78164Dolomite2014-08-28T22:24:09Z<p>Quatermass: Created page with "==What is it?== '''Dolomite''' (CaMg(CO<sub>3</sub>)<sub>2</sub>) is a natural rock used to add calcium magnesium carbonate to soil to provide calcium, magnesium and carbon to ai..."</p>
<hr />
<div>==What is it?==<br />
'''Dolomite''' (CaMg(CO<sub>3</sub>)<sub>2</sub>) is a natural rock used to add calcium magnesium carbonate to soil to provide calcium, magnesium and carbon to aid plant growth.<br />
<br />
It is used in aquariums as a method to increase the general hardness ([[GH]]) of the water (and to a degree [[KH]]). Many plants, aquatic species require a level of hardness in the water to build their bones and external body parts. For example aquatic snails need a GH of at least {{d|8|10}} to stop their outer casing from dissolving into the water and killing the animal. <br />
<br />
*When you add Dolomite to water, it reacts with any acids present and binds with free H+ ions to form [[Calcium bicarbonate]], or Ca(HCO3)2 plus magnesium and thus reduces the count of free H+ ions which raises the pH of the water.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Sources==<br />
Using supplied in a powder or rock form, it can be added into aquariums where it will slowly dissolve.<br />
<br />
Can be used as an alternative source of [[Lime]].<br />
<br />
== Links ==<br />
[[w:Dolomite|Wikipedia]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]<br />
[[Category:Plant food]]<br />
[[Category:Water conditioners]]</div>Quatermasshttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Macrotocinclus_affinis&diff=77741Macrotocinclus affinis2014-07-12T21:04:45Z<p>Quatermass: added location</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Fish Data<br />
|stub=No<br />
|name=Dwarf Oto<br />
|extra_common_names=Oto, Dwarf Otocinclus, Golden Otocinclus, Dwarf Otto, Dwarf or Midget Suckermouth Catfish.<br />
|species=Macrotocinclus affinis<br />
|extra_scientific_names=Otocinclus affinis<br />
|image=Otocinclus_affinis.jpg<br />
|caption=Dwarf Oto<br />
|availability=U<br />
|habitat=south america<br />
|family=Loricariidae<br />
|captive_bred=No<br />
|difficulty=M<br />
|min_size=1.5<br />
|max_size=2<br />
|size_units=in<br />
|stocking_ratio_male=1<br />
|stocking_ratio_female=2<br />
|diet=H<br />
|food_flake=No<br />
|food_pellet=Yes<br />
|food_live=No<br />
|food_other=Yes<br />
|min_life_span=4<br />
|max_life_span=5<br />
|min_sg=1<br />
|max_sg=1<br />
|min_tank_size=10<br />
|min_tank_size_unit=gal<br />
|min_ph=6.0<br />
|max_ph=8.0<br />
|min_temperature=20<br />
|max_temperature=26<br />
|temperature_units=C<br />
|min_water_hardness=15<br />
|max_water_hardness=20<br />
}}<br />
{{Basic fish page<br />
|origin=From the freshwater Orinoco river system in the Amazon river<br />
|sexing=:Difficult. Females are slightly bigger than males.<br />
|tank_compatibility=:A peaceful community fish. Will co-habit with other peaceful tank mates.<br />
|diet={{:category:Otocinclus\diet}}<br />
|feeding_regime=:They graze on [[algae]] virtually all the time, so ensure they get enough.<br />
|environment_specifics={{:category:Otocinclus\environment_specifics}}<br />
|behaviour=:They tend to rest on any object, including the front glass so you'll get plenty of views of their underside. Prefers to keep near its own company. Will occasionally be seen sleeping, and can awake and dash about if startled.<br />
|identification=:Very pale body band with almost a golden sheen to it. See picture.<br />
:This species is often incorrectly identified. But is hard to find in the trade.<br />
:Most web sites incorrectly label ''[[Otocinclus macrospilus]]'' as this species.<br />
}}<br />
{{Categories<br />
|Category=Fish, Fish (Freshwater), Catfish, Otocinclus, Plecos, Otocinclus, Otocinclus, Plecos, Otocinclus, Otocinclus, Habitat South America - Fish<br />
}}<br />
== Special note ==<br />
:These peaceful community fish are often <u>starving</u> when you see them in the average pet shop and consequently they have a reputation of having a high mortality rate within the first month of ownership.<br />
<br />
:Ensure that you look at their bellies carefully in the shop and if they look very thin or hollow bellied then tell the shop to feed them more algae tablets. These fish need to eat all the time.<br />
<br />
:When you get them home, let them settle into a quiet tank and put in plenty of [[algae tablets]] for them to chew on. The first week is fairly critical.<br />
<br />
:Many websites/aquatic stores incorrectly label ''[[Otocinclus macrospilus]]'' as this species.<br />
<br />
== Pictures ==<br />
<br />
== External links ==<br />
*{{FishBase |id=11332}}<br />
*[http://www.otocinclus.com/ Otocinclus.com]<br />
*[http://www.planetcatfish.com/shanesworld/shanesworld.php?article_id=178 Otocinclus - ''Little Monkeys'' in the planted aquarium]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Algae Eaters]]</div>Quatermasshttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=The_Aquarium_Wiki:About&diff=77611The Aquarium Wiki:About2014-06-02T22:11:05Z<p>Quatermass: updated</p>
<hr />
<div>The Aquarium Wiki is a free encyclopaedia developed in 2006 by a couple of aquarium owners who saw the need for a comprehensive collective guide that allowed anyone to edit its content under the one roof.<br />
<br />
<br />
Brian Malinconico ([[User:PsiPro|PsiPro]]) in the USA physically owns the servers that host the site, and the domain name, and is a keen aquarium owner.<br />
<br />
Stuart Halliday ([[User:Quatermass|Quatermass]]) is one of the head administrators of the site from the UK who brings his wide experience of IT and aquarium knowledge to the site and was the initial drive to getting the content of the Aquarium Wiki off the ground. <br />
<br />
Yes, there are other aquarium sites and forums, but these tend to specialise on one area of the hobby and none seem to include reviews of products, companies, and clubs listings across the world, etc.<br />
<br />
The Aquarium Wiki has a number of unique features like the ability to add our search engine in your web browser so you can always find out detailed information no matter what web site you're currently visiting.<br />
<br />
We have a forum that is closely linked with the encyclopaedia so that it allows anyone to openly criticise or praise the site or its content.<br />
<br />
There are critics of Wiki-type sites.<BR> <br />
The main point raised is 'how can we trust the information found?'. Indeed this is a valid point. Each page on this site is editable by anyone and some of these may be anonymous. <br />
<br />
But then how can you trust the information you're told in a open web forum or mailing list? Both types of internet discussion are written by people you don't know with their own agendas and motives. <br />
<br />
But here on the Aquarium Wiki alongside each article we submit [[w:Primary_source|primary]] or [[w:Secondary_source|secondary]] sources (reference links to other sites or books) which should hopefully back up the text you have read. We also have a small army of keen aquarium hobbyists who moderate the content so it's kept current.<br />
<br />
We also uniquely have a forum that anyone can post to if they have a query or concern over any information they've read and we can discuss the point in question as this hobby is still developing and expanding as we learn more about aquatic life and how to look after it.<br />
<br />
<br />
--[[User:Quatermass|Quatermass]], 2nd June 2014 (UTC)<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Please see also the related [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:AQF Aquarium Fish WikiProject at Wikipedia]. Collaboration is welcome! Unlike Wikipedia, The Aquarium Wiki provides practical information on how to care for aquarium fish. --[[User:Tryptofish|Tryptofish]]</div>Quatermasshttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Enchytraeus_albidus&diff=77601Enchytraeus albidus2014-05-30T23:20:24Z<p>Quatermass: /* Links */ updated links</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Image:Whiteworm1.jpg|300px|right]]<br />
==What is it?==<br />
<br />
This is a small white worm, similar to the common earth worm except it is white, {{cm|3|4}} in length and about 1mm in diameter.<br />
<br />
==What do we use them for?==<br />
They are commonly used in the aquarium hobby as a [[live food]] for fish, amphibians and small aquatic reptiles.<br />
<br />
==How do we feed them?==<br />
They are easy and cheap to keep. <br />
You keep them in a dark, water tight (but not air tight) container with a lid.<br />
<br />
Add enough food so they can eat it within 2–3 days, any longer and you risk it sprouting fungus and going off.<br />
Mix it into the soil so it becomes damp. The worms can't eat dry food.<br />
<br />
Initially with only a few worms, you'll not need much. But as the days pass, you'll need to add more at each interval.<br />
<br />
==What do we feed them?==<br />
Feed with good amounts of fish flake, cooked rice, damp bread crumbs or damp biscuit crumbs. Basically anything that comes to hand that can absorb moisture and has a reasonable level of protein and other nutrients.<br />
<br />
The quality of the nutrients in the food you feed these worms will ultimately be in turn fed to the animals in your aquarium.<br />
<br />
Some foods tend to smell more than other. Try feeding rice flour or plain white flour made of rice, potato, tapioca, maize and buckwheat (protein 17%) (basically an off-the-shelf gluten free flour available from most supermarkets) as this doesn't smell bad and seems to ensure a huge population boost for the tiny worms when they hatch. Probably due to the tiny size of the food particles. Sprinkle the flour over the soil and then make sure you spray the flour layer with water so it is wet through.<br />
<br />
==Environment==<br />
Keep the worms cool (ideally between {{C|10|21}}, optimal is {{C|15|21}}. Above {{C|29}} they stop reproducing and die off <ref name="memi">[http://www.trjfas.org/pdf/issue_4_1/05_07.pdf White Worm Devrim Memi] - The Effect of Different Diets on the White Worm.</ref>.<br />
<br />
Soil ideally needs to be around a [[pH]] of 7 and slightly damp to the touch. Mix in a little [[Lime]] if it is too acidic.<br />
<br />
As the population increases and they excrete waste, the soil gets more acidic and ammonia forms, so regularly change a portion of the soil or add ammonia absorbing chips like [[zeolite]]. If not the culture will crash and kill all the worms very quickly (often in a few hours and they'll turn to mush and stink very badly. Early warning signs to look out for are the worms climbing the sides of their container.<br />
<br />
*Ensure the container has air holes, they need oxygen to breath. But do not create large holes as termites and other small insects will smell the food and infect your culture. We suggest cutting a square hole in the lid and and gluing in place a square of fine nylon sheet over it as from a piece of window curtain.<br />
<br />
*A black container is preferable (or keep it in the dark) as the worms will try to hide from any light and therefore may be driven away from the food if it is on the surface.<br />
<br />
==Reproduction of the species==<br />
White worms are [[hermaphroditic]]. The worms exchange sperm cells during copulation with one another, and eggs are laid in transparent cocoons. Cocoons produced by young adults contained 9-10 eggs each, while cocoons produced mature adults contained 20–35 eggs each, and those produced by old worms contained 2–3 eggs each. <br />
The average for the total population in culture was found to be 10 eggs per cocoon. White worm eggs hatch in 12 days, and worms begin reproducing in 20 days. Each individual can produce as many as 1000 eggs over its life span (Ivleva, 1969).<br />
<br />
Expect 10 worms to turn into ~100 within 30 days <ref name="memi" />. If not, check pH of soil, temperature, moisture of soil and check food is always present. Too high or too low moisture will reduce reproduction. Read links below for more detail.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Keeping the culture going==<br />
As the culture grows you'll notice tiny micro worms increasing in volume on the lid or sides of the container.<br />
You'll find that over the weeks that you'll need to add more food as the population increases and it is important to keep the worms well fed if you wish the culture to grow.<br />
<br />
Due to the fact that the culture can crash very quickly after a month or so, it is advisable to always have at least two containers of them at any one time. Once a month or two, take a sample of the oldest culture and place it in a new container with new soil. This will be your backup.<br />
<br />
Culture crashing is believed to be caused by the waste toxin of [[ammonia]] in the soil given off by the worms. <br />
So try added small lumps of [[zeolite]] to the soil or add 10ml of a ammonia neutraliser liquid like [[Prime]], Stress-Lock or Ammo-Lock to 500ml of water, which you use to top up the moisture content of the soil. This will delay the crash.<br />
<br />
*AQUARIUMWIKI TIP: Feed the worms flour made from only Rice flour. This type of gluten-free flour is high in protein and makes a culture far less smelly. A light sprinkling of flour every two days followed by a light coating of water with an ammonia neutraliser added will ensure your culture lasts for many many months. Occasionally turn over the soil to loosen it up.<br />
<br />
===Infection of other creatures===<br />
It is common to find other creatures (spider mites, fleas, etc.) living in the soil after a few weeks if you've used non-sterile soil. Tip: Garden shops do sell soil that is free of these pests. But keep the bag sealed after you open it!<br />
<br />
Often after a few months you'll find that these unwanted creatures have multiplied greatly. You can't use chemicals to kill them as that will kill the white worms. The only thing you can do is to carefully remove some worms and rinsing them in water, place them into fresh damp soil and start a new culture.<br />
<br />
*Of course you can try to feed these tiny creatures to your fish. But it's not for the faint-hearted.<br />
<br />
==Obtaining the species==<br />
This species is widely available from various sources throughout most countries.<br />
<br />
*Local aquarium club<br />
*Local good aquarium shop<br />
*[http://www.ebay.com/ eBay] and [[Aquabid]] constantly have auctions of these. Look for 'white worm culture'.<br />
<br />
==References==<br />
<references/><br />
<br />
==Links==<br />
*[http://www.worm-cultures.com/whiteworminformation.htm Preparing for your White Worm Starter Culture]<br />
*[https://web.archive.org/web/20080919034900/http://homepage.powerup.com.au/~rodpick/fd_white_worms.html Cultivating White Worm]<br />
*[http://www.killi.co.uk/whiteworms.php Killi.co.uk - Cultivating White Worm]<br />
*[https://web.archive.org/web/20060502143646/http://members.optusnet.com.au/chelmon/Whitewrm.htm Whiteworms] - How to cultivate<br />
*[https://web.archive.org/web/20061028224941/http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/management/Greene_White%20Worms.html White Worms by Jennifer Greene] from the March 1999 issue of "the Daphnian", Boston Aquarium Society via Aquarticles<br />
*[http://www.trjfas.org/pdf/issue_4_1/05_07.pdf White Worm Devrim Memi] - The Effect of Different Diets on the White Worm.<br />
<br />
[[Category:Freshwater Food]]<br />
[[Category:Live Food]]</div>Quatermasshttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Hamburg_mat&diff=77375Hamburg mat2014-03-23T11:51:31Z<p>Quatermass: </p>
<hr />
<div>==Alternative names==<br />
:{{cn|Hamburg matting Filter}} ({{cn|HMF}})<br />
<br />
==Description==<br />
This is a DIY basic air driven biological bacterial filter which takes up the entire side of an aquarium, usually the shortest side. It was invented in Germany and is designed to be a very cheap, robust and efficient filter for preventing fry, small fish, frogs or tadpoles from being trapped by the inlet of a normal filter.<br />
<br />
==Parts required==<br />
It consists of an air-pump, air tubing, optional airstone, a non-return air valve, a small plastic or PVC tube 0.5" in diameter that has a right angle at the top and the overall height of the water level and an aquarium-safe block of foam about 1-2" thick that will fit tightly into the walls of the aquarium and be slightly taller than the water level.<br />
<br />
==Building==<br />
With the PVC pipe with cut-out notches at one end standing on the floor of the aquarium, the right-angle end needs to be just above the planned water.<br />
At the right-angle drill a small hole for the air tubing and place inside a length of the tubing (optionally with a air stone such that the stone is at the bottom for reduced noise). Seal the hole where the air tubing comes out so it is air tight.<br />
<br />
Take the foam and cut it to size so that it needs to be compressed to fit inside the walls of the aquarium. Some people cut out a shallow notch in the centre of the foam so that the PVC tubing rests within the foam for a tidier look.<br />
<br />
Make sure the foam goes all the way to the floor and above the planned water level. Some people cut a notch at the top of the foam so that the PVC pipe rests on top for a tidier look.<br />
<br />
This filter will have a huge surface area and should never clog in practise for about 2 years or more.<br />
<br />
==Video==<br />
<youtube>RitkNdxQjko</youtube><br />
<youtube>kMqZ3DKnpJ8</youtube><br />
<youtube>s_1cSR3mbM4</youtube><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]<br />
[[Category:Products]]</div>Quatermasshttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Hamburg_matting_Filter&diff=77374Hamburg matting Filter2014-03-23T11:49:58Z<p>Quatermass: Redirected page to Hamburg mat</p>
<hr />
<div>#REDIRECT [[Hamburg_mat]]<br />
[[Category:Products]]<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]</div>Quatermasshttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=HMF&diff=77373HMF2014-03-23T11:48:33Z<p>Quatermass: Redirected page to Hamburg mat</p>
<hr />
<div>#REDIRECT [[Hamburg_mat]]<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]</div>Quatermasshttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Nitrate&diff=77326Nitrate2014-03-14T20:04:53Z<p>Quatermass: /* Lethal dosage */</p>
<hr />
<div>== What is Nitrate? ==<br />
'''Nitrate (NO3)''' is a nitrogen by-product of the nitrifying bacteria (Nitrospira) in a filter or substrate consuming [[Nitrite]]. It was previously thought species of Nitrobacter did this. but since 1998 it's considered to be species of Nitrospira.<br />
<br />
*Nitrate is far less toxic than [[nitrite]] and much less toxic than [[Ammonia]].<br />
<br />
The level of Nitrate in water that may damages aquatic animals varies considerably in each species and at their stage of growth. With mortality of eggs and very young fry being sensitive to low levels (~20&nbsp;mg/l) of nitrate.<ref name="salmonid">[http://www.springerlink.com/content/m070024m71wur474/ Tolerance of developing salmonid eggs and fry to nitrate exposure]</ref> Also nitrate toxicity is made further complex as fish can become accustomed to a slowly growing level of nitrate over time and remain seemingly visually unharmed.<br />
<br />
Scientific studies into nitrate toxicity have been primary been performed on commercial fish consumed by the public. For example fish like Salmon, trout and some large catfish. With the majority of the fish used in the ornamental pet trade remaining untested and therefore an unknown factor.<br />
<br />
Studies of adult fish like Salmon show they can tolerate levels of 5,000&nbsp;mg/l <ref name="salmonid" /><ref>[http://www.labmeeting.com/paper/26878660/mcgurk-2006-acute-and-chronic-toxicity-of-nitrate-to-early-life-stages-of-lake-trout-%28salvelinus-namaycush%29-and-lake-whitefish-%28coregonus-clupeaformis%29 Acute and chronic toxicity of nitrate to early life stages of lake trout (Salvelinus namaycush) and lake whitefish (Coregonus clupeaformis)]</ref><br />
<br />
<br />
== Recommend level ==<br />
The safe level of nitrate varies considerably between species and its age. The hobby has settled for an average maximum level of 50&nbsp;mg/l in a typical community tropical tank. But this level may need to be adjusted downwards if you wish to own known nitrate sensitive fish like Stingrays or Discus. Marine fish owners often set a safe level of below 20&nbsp;mg/l.<br />
<br />
==Symptoms of Nitrate poison==<br />
It inhibits growth, damages internal organs and impairs the immune system in young fish.<br />
In older fish high levels cause stress leading to a depressed immune system, behavioural changes and even blindness and death.<br />
<br />
== Lethal dosage ==<br />
*There is no single level 'dangerous' dosage. Aquarists playing safe by trying to keep this level below 50&nbsp;mg/l. Though in reality species vary enormously in their tolerance to this toxin. The theory today is that prolonged exposure to elevated levels of nitrate may decrease the immune response, induce internal hematological and biochemical changes within the animal (behaviour changes) and may increase mortality. Especially in [[fry]].<ref>[http://web.archive.org/web/20041122051426/http://www.atlantech.ca/articles/Water+Quality.PDF Nitrate Toxicity: A Potential Problem of Recirculating Systems] (Archived web link Nov. 2004)</ref><br />
<br />
<br />
:The average fish can withstand quite high dosages of nitrates (100-500mg/l) as long as the build up of the chemical is slow and over many days in the tank. However it's quite common for less experience aquarists to go and introduce a new fish to their seemingly healthy tank of fish only for the new fish to die overnight due to nitrate poisoning if the tank water is heavy with nitrate. And as stated previously each species tolerance is different (and poorly researched in the cases of ornamental aquatic pets) which is why the hobby often recommends an average safe level of 50mg/l.<br />
<br />
== Testing for Nitrates ==<br />
There are many test kits available from pet shops for testing the level of nitrate in water. Some are simple strips of cards which you dip into water. Other more accurate ones use drops of chemicals you mix with a sample of water.<br />
*Aquarists should always have a test kit on hand. If there is an unexplained death or behaviour in the tank then an immediate test of nitrates, nitrites, etc. will be required as soon as possible in case action needs to be carried out.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Removing Nitrate ==<br />
If levels are not going down then you may need to do several things: <br />
<br />
*Do regular weekly water tests so you are not caught unaware.<br />
*Do a water change. By simply performing a 25% water change once a week, most tanks will remain under the recommended 50&nbsp;mg/l level.<br />
*Check the nitrate level in your tap water. Some freshwater suppliers may supply tap water to you with a high level of nitrate already!<br />
*Add a few fast growing plants to the tank. Aquatic plants consume nitrates as it's one of their nutrients. Though they may also need other nutrients in order to remove nitrates. See [[PMDD]].<br />
*Reduce feeding, you may be overfeeding the animals.<br />
*Do not overstock your tank. Remove some animals if need be.<br />
*Add a chemical treatment that removes or neutralises the nitrates.<br />
**Prime by [http://www.seachem.com/ Seachem] neutralises nitrates.<br />
**[[Amquel plus|AmQuel+]] by Kordon removes nitrate.<br />
**NovAqua+ by [http://www.novalek.com/kordon/novaqua+ Kordon] reduces nitrates.<br />
**Nitrateminus by Tetra''Aqua''<br />
**Dose with fruit sugar fructose (typically 4g per 20 litres of water once a week or half that amount of fructose if nitrates are higher than 100mg/l) which promotes nitrate consuming bacteria by supplying a source of dissolved carbon for the bacteria to consume nitrogen.<ref> [http://www.freepatentsonline.com/6025152.pdf Patent US6025152] </ref> Ensure aquarium is well aerated during this treatment.<br />
<br />
*Add a [[nitrate reactor]] which removes the nitrate by chemical or bacteria process. <br />
*Add bacteria (mainly bacillus sp. bacteria<ref>Enterobacter sakazakii, Bacillus coagulans, Bacillus subtillis, Bacillus sphaericus, Bacillus megatarium, Bacillus licheniformis, Bacillus cereus, Bacillus pasteurii, Bacillus cirroflagellosus, Bacillus pumilus. As listed in [http://www.freepatentsonline.com/6025152.pdf US Patent 6025152].</ref>) that removes nitrate by consuming it.<ref>[http://www.freepatentsonline.com/6025152.pdf Patent US6025152] - Denitrifying bacterial preparation and method</ref><br />
**[http://www.viresco-uk.com/information/aquatic_products.asp Viresco Aqua/Koi] adds nitrate consuming bacteria.<br />
**[http://www.hdltd.com/products/p_rightnow.html Right Now! Bacteria]<br />
<br />
== Adding Nitrates ==<br />
In a well planted tank with a good CO2 supply, the plants will want to consume more nitrate than there is in the water.<br />
In these situations it is often the case that aquatics manually add nitrate via chemical powders.<br />
<br />
*Typical nitrate chemical is Potassium nitrate [[KNO3]] or less commonly Sodium nitrate [[NaNO3]].<br />
See [[PMDD]] and [[EI]] for examples of their use.<br />
<br />
==References==<br />
<references/><br />
<br />
== Links ==<br />
*[[w:Nitrate|Nitrate]] by Wikipedia<br />
*[http://www.ornamentalfish.org/association/code/quality/nitrate.php Nitrate in the aquarium] and safe levels by the [[OATA]]<br />
*[http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_plant_nitrate.htm Adding Nitrate to a planted tank]<br />
*[http://www.marineland.com/science/biospirarep/6Nitrobacter.asp Nitrospira - Not Nitrobacter] by MarineLand<br />
*[http://www.tetra.de/index.cfm?uuid=36492F4D7E96C076A4E7CAB31E15E1E9&o_lang_id=2&produkt_list=1 TetraTest]. Typical range of test kits from TetraAqua<br />
*[http://web.archive.org/web/20041122051426/http://www.atlantech.ca/articles/Water+Quality.PDF Nitrate Toxicity: A Potential Problem of Recirculating Systems] (Archived web link Nov. 2004)<br />
*[http://www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=37678 PFK Forum] - What should my Nitrate level be?<br />
<br />
<br />
==Other relevant articles==<br />
*See [[Nitrate respiration]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]</div>Quatermasshttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Euthanasia&diff=77316Euthanasia2014-03-09T22:07:15Z<p>Quatermass: /* Carbon dioxide */</p>
<hr />
<div>'''Euthanasia''' is the deliberate ceasing of an animals life functions in a painless way so as to relive the suffering of the animal when medical aid has not helped. It is also used when culling fish that have a malformation or are not up to standards when breeding. <br />
<br />
In the aquarium hobby various methods are used. Here is a current list.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Anesthetic Overdose==<br />
These include: Finquel, Tricaine methanesulfonate (TMS), Benzocaine hydrochloride, MS-222, etc.<br />
Pros: <br />
:Easy, and believed to be painless.<br />
<br />
Cons: <br />
:Can be difficult to find. Vet prescription often required.<br />
:If animal is removed too soon they can be revived.<br />
:Fish have shown a stress response to some of these chemicals.<br />
<br />
==Carbon dioxide==<br />
This can be put into the water via airstone, Sodium bicarbonate (Bicarbonate of soda, baking soda), health salts (Alka-Seltzer). It is not recommended for amphibians. <br />
<br />
Pros:<br />
:Easy, and painless.<br />
<br />
Cons:<br />
:Certain species of fish (surface breathers) and amphibians can survive in extremely low oxygen environments so the use of [[CO2]] may not be a quick method for anaesthetising.<br />
<br />
==Clove oil==<br />
<br />
Pros:<br />
:Quick, easy, and painless.<br />
<br />
Cons:<br />
:Some may have trouble finding it.<br />
<br />
==Freezing or Boiling==<br />
<br />
Pros:<br />
:Easy.<br />
<br />
Cons:<br />
:May not be painless. Freezing not recommended for cold water species.<br />
<br />
==Alcohol==<br />
<br />
Pros:<br />
:Easily available.<br />
<br />
Cons:<br />
:May not be painless.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Physical violence==<br />
Examples: Sudden blunt trauma, Decapitation, Pithing, feeding to larger fish, etc.<br />
<br />
Pros:<br />
:If done properly can be quick.<br />
<br />
Cons:<br />
:If not done properly can cause the animal to suffer.<br />
:Most methods require the animal to be removed from the water first which stresses them.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Flushing down the toilet==<br />
Pros: <br />
:No special equipment needed.<br />
<br />
Cons:<br />
:Akin to putting a puppy in an outhouse.<br />
:Can introduce disease to your septic system and the environment.<br />
:Animal may not die.<br />
<br />
== Links ==<br />
*[[w:Euthanasia|Wikipedia]]<br />
*[http://thegab.org/Articles/Euthanasia.html The Gab on Euthanasia]<br />
*[http://web.archive.org/web/20030406022939/http://www.fishdoc.co.uk/treatments/euthanasia.htm FishDoc on Euthanasia Treatments]<br />
*[http://www.avma.org/issues/animal_welfare/euthanasia.pdf Euthanasia guidelines PDF file from the American Veterinary Medical Association’s (AVMA)]<br />
*[http://www2.dpi.qld.gov.au/extra/pdf/animalwelfare/UseOfCarbonDioxideForEuthanasia-Jan2007.pdf RSPCA and the use of CO<sub>2</sub>]<br />
*[http://www.thekrib.com/Fish/euthanasia.html The Krib on Euthanasia]<br />
*[http://www.thefishsite.com/articles/324/fish-slaughter-killing-and-euthanasia-a-review-of-major-published-us-guidance-documents-and-general-considerations-of-methods Fish Slaughter, Killing, and Euthanasia]<br />
*[http://depts.washington.edu/iacuc/policies/fish_euthanasia.html University of Washington Policy for the Euthanasia of Fish Species]<br />
*[http://www.caudata.org/cc/articles/euthanasia.shtml Euthanasia for Amphibians]<br />
*[http://freshaquarium.about.com/cs/disease/a/noflush.htm Don't Flush That Fish!]<br />
*[http://www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk/content.php?sid=6288 Time to rethink anaesthetics?]<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]</div>Quatermasshttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Template:Preparing_the_wood&diff=77294Template:Preparing the wood2014-03-02T20:08:50Z<p>Quatermass: /* Preparing the wood */ updated</p>
<hr />
<div>==Preparing the wood==<br />
Do not simply dunk the wood into your tank. <br />
Your piece of wood has probably been sitting on a shelf in the shop or in your home for a long time. It may have collected chemical sprays from the air and often will be coated with dust. <br />
<br />
Take the wood and rinse it under normal tap water and leave it in a bucket of tap water for several days. If the water turns very dark brown then the wood probably hasn't been pretreated and you'll need to replace the water and re-examine the water every 2 days until it shows signs of lessening. This can take months in a untreated piece.<br />
<br />
If it is pretreated it should sink rapidly within a day and will not leak out high levels of [http://www.theaquariumwiki.com/Bogwood#What_Bogwood_does_to_the_water tannins].<br />
Once you're happy with the way the wood is looking, add to your aquarium. <br />
<br />
*Boiling wood in water for 6-12 hours is a quick alternative to letting it sit soaking in water for weeks. But this is a <u>very</u> smelly and dirty process for most home aquarists. It also destroys any beneficial fungus or bacteria there may have been on it - along with any harmful ones.</div>Quatermasshttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Ammonia&diff=77147Ammonia2014-01-09T21:15:07Z<p>Quatermass: Reverted edits by Cgjedi (talk) to last revision by Brianlow</p>
<hr />
<div>'''Ammonia''', in the aquarium hobby, refers to two chemical compounds, free ammonia (NH3) and ammonium (NH4+) together. Ammonia is a food source for [[nitrifying bacteria]] and is toxic to fish, amphibians and invertebrates. It is a key input to the [[The Nitrogen Cycle]] and an important parameter to measure when [[cycling]] a new tank.<br />
<br />
==What is it?==<br />
Free ammonia is a chemical compound of nitrogen and hydrogen with the formula NH3. Technically ammonia in water is called [[w:Ammonium hydroxide|Ammonium hydroxide]]. In the aquarium hobby the term ammonia also refers to an ionized form called ammonium (NH4+). These are held in equilibrium in the water [Citation needed]. '[[Total ammonia]]' (TA) or 'Total ammonia nitrogen' ([[TAN]]) refers to the total concentration of both NH3 and NH4+ in the aquarium water. <br />
<br />
Where you have Ammonia, you will also have Ammonium. The ratio of one to the other varies on pH and water temperature. So it is important to know these two readings when measuring Ammonia in your tank to gauge how serious the Ammonia levels are. See the Links section for a Toxic Ammonia calculator. Here is a table showing the varying levels of ammonia against ammonium.<br />
<br />
{| style="text-align:center" cellpadding=9 class="wikitable" border=1 cellspacing=0 style="border:4px"<br />
|+ '''% Percent of ammonia from 'total ammonia''''<br />
|- style="background:#efefef;" <br />
|Temp C/F || pH 6.5 || pH 7.0 || pH 7.5 ||pH 7.7 || pH 8.0 || pH 8.5<br />
|-<br />
!20C (68F)<br />
|0.125||0.395||1.239||1.95||3.81||11.15<br />
|-<br />
!25C (77F)<br />
|0.179||0.565||1.766||2.77||5.380||15.242<br />
|-<br />
!28C (82F)<br />
|0.221||0.696||2.170||3.396||6.55||18.156<br />
|-<br />
!30C (86F)<br />
|0.253||0.798||2.482||3.78||7.450||20.292<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Sources of Ammonia==<br />
Primary sources:<br />
* Fish excrete ammonia as a waste byproduct of metabolism. In particular, fish excrete free ammonia from their gills and ammonium in their urine. It is suspected invertebrates excrete ammonia in some form as well. The amount of ammonia excreted will vary with amount of food eaten.<br />
* Decaying organic material from dead animals and uneaten food. As the material decomposes, nitrogen is released which is converted into ammonia by bacteria.<br />
<br />
Minor sources:<br />
* tap water<br />
* salt mixes<br />
<br />
== Testing for Ammonia ==<br />
The concentration of ammonia in water is easily measured with widely available test kits. There are two common methods for measuring ammonia: <br />
[[Nessler]] measures total ammonia (NH3 and NH4+) <ref>[http://nippyfish.net/2006/08/08/ammonia-test-kits-nessler-vs-salicylate/ Ammonia Test Kits: Nessler vs. Salicylate] </ref> and <br />
[[Salicylate]] measures free ammonia (NH3) <ref>Ammonia Tests http://www.chemetrics.com/pdf/Ammonia.pdf</ref>. A test kit will use one or both methods. In the marine hobby if a test kit does not explicitly state it measures free ammonia then it is likely uses the Nessler method and measures total ammonia. <br />
<br />
Some [[Water conditioners]] transform free ammonia (NH3) into ammonium (NH4+). As a result, Salicylate test kits will show a decrease in free ammonia while the Nessler test kits will not show any change in total ammonia.<br />
<br />
The typical unit of measure is ppm (parts per million). In seawater ppm and mg/L are interchangeably since 1 ppm ammonia = 1.03 mg/L ammonia.<br />
<br />
== Toxicity ==<br />
* Free ammonia is highly toxic to aquatic life. It kills in aquariums at very low amounts. Any level above 0.02&nbsp;mg/l (ppm) is considered harmful.<br />
<br />
* Ammonium may be toxic to marine fish, especially if the pH differs significantly from natural seawater (e.g. during shipping) <ref>[http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-02/rhf/index.php#11 Mechanisms of Ammonia Excretion by Marine Fish]</ref><br />
<br />
* Free ammonia causes gill damage, internal organ damage and eventually skin damage and death. Typical symptoms include:<br />
** ragged or frayed fins<br />
** cloudy eyes<br />
** rapid gilling<br />
** lack of appetite<br />
** more susceptible to disease<br />
<br />
*In general, ammonia is more toxic at higher alkaline [[pH]] values and as the temperature of the water increases.<br />
<br />
*Ammonia is not toxic to plants in levels that would cause distress to fish, indeed of those plants tested, most preferred ammonia or ammonium as a food to [[nitrate]] <ref>[http://www.aquabotanic.com/plants_and_biological_filtration.htm PLANTS and BIOLOGICAL FILTRATION] by Diana Walstad</ref>.<br />
<br />
*Rough guide to toxic levels of free ammonia:<br />
**0.020 to 0.049 (ppm) is considered 'tolerated' but will cause long term harm to its growth, immune system, health, etc. especially to eggs or very young animals. <br />
**0.050 to 0.199 (ppm) is perhaps tolerated for only a few days and is very harmful.<br />
**0.200 to 0.499 (ppm) is perhaps tolerated for a day or two and will probably kill.<br />
**0.500+ (ppm) is deadly and will probably kill within a day.<br />
**Individual species of fish, amphibians, invertebrates etc. vary enormously on their tolerances of low levels of ammonia and the issue is made further complicated as young are far more susceptible to ammonia than older animals.<ref>US Environmental Protection Agency. Ambient Water Quality Criteria for Ammonia, (EPA 440/5-85-001) 2009. [http://water.epa.gov/scitech/swguidance/standards/criteria/aqlife/pollutants/ammonia/ammonia_index.cfm]</ref> <ref>Glodek, Garrett S. "Ammonia in the Closed System Aquarium," [http://www.fishchannel.com/fama_portal.aspx FAMA], June 1991.</ref><br />
**In nitrogen sensitive fish like Trout, ammonia is about 6x more toxic than [[nitrite]] and about 13,300x more toxic than [[nitrate]] <ref>[http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/2827-Barr-Report-Newsletter-Fish-Waste-and-Macrophytes?p=15248#post15248 Barr Report (subscription required)] - Fish Waste and Macrophytes paper page 9 - March 2007</ref><br />
<br />
== Removing Ammonia ==<br />
<br />
A healthy aquarium should contain enough ammonia consumers to consume all ammonia produced naturally by the system. These consumers come in two forms:<br />
*[[Nitrifying bacteria]] will consume ammonia and convert it to the less toxic [[nitrite]] chemical. However, it can take many weeks to establish the bacteria in large enough quantities in a new tank.<br />
*Plants in a tank will soak up ammonia in order to grow. This works well but can take time.<br />
<br />
When detectable levels of ammonia are found, these short term but immediate options are available: <br />
*Perform a [[water change]]. This dilutes the total ammonia levels quickly and cheaply.<br />
*Add a [[water conditioner]] that neutralizes ammonia. These can be expensive and can cause false readings in some test kits. But are virtually instantaneous in use and less work. <font color=red>Be sure to buy a product that specifically says it detoxifies or neutralizes ammonia. Some [[water conditioners]] may create ammonia as a byproduct of removing [[chlorine]] or [[chloramine]].</font><br />
*Add special resins or rocks which soak up the ammonia. These are reusable and relatively cheap. Typical resin product names based on [[zeolite]] are Ammo-Chip or Ammo-Carb.<br />
*Ammonia in a freshwater aquarium can be rendered less toxic by adding a small quantity of salt to the water. See [[Salt]] article.<br />
*Some [[algae]] consume ammonia so ammmonia in an aquarium can cause a [[bloom]].<br />
<br />
==Sourcing Ammonia==<br />
It is useful to add ammonia to a new tank in order to cycle it before adding any animals. There are products on the market which sell diluted ammonia as a cleaning agent. It is important to only buy a product with no additives (surfactants, perfumes, and colourants, etc.) that may pollute the water with other toxins. Usually the cheapest brands have the lowest additives.<br />
<br />
*See article - [[Fishless cycling]] for details.<br />
<br />
Typical examples:<br />
<br />
*UK - [[Kleen Off]]<br />
*USA - "Pure" Ammonia is sold in the US at WalMart as "Clear Ammonia", and at Ace Hardware as item "10183A Ammonia- Janitorial Strength Formula".<br />
*EU - please add one<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
==References==<br />
<references/><br />
<br />
== Links ==<br />
*[[w:Ammonia|Ammonia]] by Wikipedia<br />
*[http://www.thekrib.com/Chemistry/ammonia-toxicity.html The Krib] - Ammonia Toxicity to Freshwater Fish<br />
*[http://www.ornamentalfish.org/association/code/quality/ammonia.php Ammonia in aquariums] and safe levels by the OATA<br />
*[http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/FA/FA03100.pdf Ammonia in Aquatic Systems] by Ruth Francis-Floyd, Craig Watson, Denise Petty, and Deborah B. Pouder of the University of Florida<br />
*[http://web.archive.org/web/20050319163127/http://ce.ecn.purdue.edu/~piwc/w3-research/free-ammonia/derivation.html How to calculate the level of free ammonia at certain pH and temperature in water] by [http://www.ccee.iastate.edu/who-we-are/faculty/james-e-alleman.html Professor James E. Alleman] (Archived link March 2005)<br />
*[http://www.mytriops.com/search/index.php Toxic Free Ammonia level Calculator] (select 'Aquarium Tools' from the list of Tools on the page)<br />
*[http://web.archive.org/web/20101026064403/http://aquanic.org/publicat/usda_rac/efs/srac/463fs.pdf Ammonia in Fish Ponds by Robert M. Durborow, David M. Crosby and Martin W. Brunson. SRAC June 1997] (Archived link)<br />
*[http://www.cnykoi.com/calculators/calcnh3c.asp Koi and Water Garden Society] - Free Ammonia calculator<br />
*[http://www.dataguru.org/misc/aquarium/AmmoniaTox.html Ammonia Toxicity to fish Tables]<br />
*[http://web.archive.org/web/20081225010738/http://equilibriums.beggiatoa.com/ammonia.htm The ammonia/ammonium equilibrium] by Mr. Nielsen. (Archived 2008)<br />
<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]</div>Quatermasshttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Stability&diff=77146Stability2014-01-09T21:14:23Z<p>Quatermass: Reverted edits by Cgjedi (talk) to last revision by PsiPro bot</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Image:Stability 250 mL.jpg|200px|right]]<br />
==What is it?==<br />
'''Stability''' is a commercial product made by [[Seachem]]. It is a bottle that contains in a liquid, billions of four species of bacteria. Two nitrifying, one waste eating bacteria and a fourth bacteria species that eats nitrate.<br />
<br />
==What does it do?==<br />
It provides the aquarist to virtually instantly [[cycle]] an aquarium by populating a filter with nitrifying bacteria. Certainly within 3 days.<br />
This allows the aquarist to populate a new aquarium with fish from day one.<br />
<br />
It also performs [[competitive exclusion]] on any potential bad bacteria introduced with the fish by the virtue of the waste control bacteria as well as eating any spare fish food and fish waste that is lying around. Therefore leading to healthier fish.<br />
<br />
It introduces [[anaerobic]] [[nitrate]] eating bacteria which, if the tank has the appropriate substrate or filter, will consume nitrate.<br />
<br />
It is a well respected and popular product of this type. Probably one of the top three bacterial cycling products on the planet today (the other two being [[SafeStart]] and [[One and Only]]).<br />
<br />
==Bottle sizes==<br />
Seachem provide it in a variety of bottle sizes from 50ml to 20L.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Directions of use==<br />
Add some fish to the tank. The bacteria in Stability will need fish waste to keep alive.<br />
Use 1 capful (5 ml) for each {{L|40}} on the first day with a new aquarium. Then use 1 capful for each {{L|80}} daily for 7 days. Fish and other aquatic species may be introduced at any time as long as dosage is maintained for 7 days. For optimum biofilter performance use 1 capful for each {{L|40}} once a month or with each water change and whenever introducing new fish or whenever medicating an aquarium.<br />
<br />
*Turn off any UV filtering device just before adding of Stability and leave off for around 24 hours.<br />
<br />
==Special notes==<br />
*Seachem have a excellent customer forum on its web site and people can ask the Seachem staff questions on their products or general aquarium issues.<br />
<br />
*Seachem claim that Stability works over a wider range of pH or GH levels than [[Safestart]].<ref>[http://www.seachem.com/support/forums/showthread.php?t=2204 Seachem on pH range of Stability, Jan 2009]</ref><br />
<br />
*Stability MSDS is available from the [http://www.seachem.com/support/MSDS/Stability.doc.pdf Seachem site here.]<br />
<br />
*Seachem claim that the bacteria in Stability are non-sulphur fixing. Most other bacterial supplements will form toxic ''[[hydrogen sulphide]]'' under the proper conditions. Stability will not, ever.<br />
<br />
*It is safe to use. It can not be overdosed or harm aquarium animals.<br />
<br />
*Most popular mistake made with any bacterial product is that people add it to a tank before adding fish or manually adding [[ammonia]]. The result is that within 48 hours the bacteria simply is starved to death, wasting your money.<br />
<br />
==Availability==<br />
Stability is commoningly available in the USA, UK, and the EU as well as online. <br />
Though don't expect your average pet store to have this state-of-the-art product in stock.<br />
<br />
==References==<br />
{{Reflist}}<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Products]]<br />
[[Category:Product Review]]<br />
[[Category:Bacteria]]</div>Quatermasshttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Potassium_permanganate&diff=77062Potassium permanganate2013-12-15T17:00:52Z<p>Quatermass: /* External links */</p>
<hr />
<div>== What is it ==<br />
[[Image:Potassium Permanganate container.jpg|right|thumb]]<br />
'''Potassium permanganate''' (PP) is a compound that is used by aquarists for the disinfecting of plants or ornaments before placement into aquariums. It is used to remove organic build-up in tank water, and kill bacteria and fungi. It is also employed to treat some [[parasites]] that infect fish.<br />
<br />
[[Potassium]] permanganate is the chemical compound [[KMnO4]]. The salt is also known as "permanganate of potash" and "Condy's crystals". The permanganate ion is a strong oxidizing agent. It dissolves in water to give deep purple/pink solutions, evaporation of which gives prismatic purple-black glistening crystals (see picture below).<br />
<br />
*Potassium permanganate stains skin and clothing and should be handled with care. Clothing stains may be washed away using acetic acid (vinegar). Skin stains disappear within 48 hours.<br />
<br />
*To remove stains caused by potassium permanganate, use a solution of [[w:Sodium Metabisulfite|Sodium metabisulfite/Sodium metabisulphite]]. This is a food preservative called E223 that can be found at a grocery or home brewing beer shop.<br />
<br />
*It is sold in pharmacy or chemist shops over the counter and is usually supplied in the form of a small container of around 25g consisting of small blue crystals. It's usually less than £1, 1 Euro, 2 US Dollars.<br />
<br />
*'''TIP:''' To aid accurate dosage, a stock solution of one gram per litre of clean water (preferably [[Distilled water|distilled]] or [[deionised|de-ionized]] water) could be used, giving 1&nbsp;mg potassium permanganate per ml of water.<br />
<br />
*'''TIP:''' Potassium permanganate rapidly loses its potency when exposed to light and air. So keep any solution you make up well away from light and in a airtight container. <font color=red>Ensure you clearly mark any such container as poison and keep it well away from children.</font> Dispose of carefully after 2–3 months.<br />
<br />
== Plant disinfecting ==<br />
To prepare for the disinfecting of aquatic plants, prepare {{l|1}} of lukewarm ({{c|25}}) clean tap water and drop 10&nbsp;mg of crystals into it and stir until the solution turns deep blue/purple.<br />
<br />
'''<font color=red>Be careful as this solution will stain and is toxic to life.</font>'''<br />
<br />
Dip the leaves of the plant into the solution for 10 minutes, being careful not to dip the roots of the plant in it.<br />
<br />
Then rinse off thoroughly.<br />
<br />
This will kill live snails as well as snail eggs and parasites <ref name="theSkepticalAquarist">[http://www.skepticalaquarist.com/docs/health/potper.shtml The Skeptical Aquarist]</ref>.<br />
<br />
== Fish treatment ==<br />
Potassium permanganate can be used to treat [[parasites]] on individual fish. It will eliminate [[anchor worms]], [[fish lice]], [[flukes]]<ref name="theSkepticalAquarist">sdf</ref>, [[ich]]<ref name="usda">[http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/2001/010821.htm Potassium Permanganate Kills Fish Parasite] - USDA</ref><ref name="UF">[http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/fa006 Ichthyophthirius Multifiliis (White Spot) Infections in Fish] - University of Florida IFAS Extension</ref>, [[costia]], [[cotton mouth]], [[fungus]] and many types of [[bacteria]].<br />
Prepare {{L|8}} of water at aquarium temperature and add 1/8 teaspoon (0.6g) of crystals. <br />
*Stir until dissolved.<br />
*Dip fish into solution for 5 minutes. If fish looks stressed, remove at once.<br />
*Dip fish into clean water for a few seconds to rinse.<br />
*Do NOT use this level of potassium permanganate in an aquarium tank!<br />
<br />
== Tank treatment ==<br />
Potassium permanganate is an effective anti-[[parasite]] treatment ([[Ich]], etc.), as well as being able to remove odours from tanks and increasing the [[Redox|redox potential]] of the water.<br />
<br />
However as this compound is very toxic, using the wrong dosage will result in killing all life in the tank. Please read this excellent article on how to get the safe dosage on [http://www.fishdoc.co.uk/treatments/potassium%20permanganate.htm FishDoc.co.uk].<br />
<br />
*Biological filtration systems should be removed before applying.<br />
*This compound works best with little or no light.<br />
<br />
*Typically used against bacteria (including your nitrifying bacteria in your filter) and parasites. You use a solution of 2ppm (this is 0.5&nbsp;grams per 380L (100 US gallons) or 0.065g per 50L). Repeated every 2–3 days for a maximum of 5 treatments.<ref>[http://www.fishdoc.co.uk/treatments/potassium%20permanganate.htm Potassium permanganate] on FishDoc</ref><ref>[http://www.koivet.com/koivet/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=112:basics-of-kmno4-potassium-permanganate&catid=36:medicine-treatments&Itemid=57 Potassium permanganate] - by Doc Johnson</ref><br />
<br />
==Removing odours==<br />
The build-up of odours in old aquariums is caused by the decay of organic material.<br />
<br />
You need to prepare a dosage of 0.5ppm of PP. This is 0.065g per 200L of water to give you 0.5ppm in solution.<br />
<br />
0.065g of PP in 1L of water will give you a 100ppm solution. So using 5ml of this solution per 1L of water will give you a 0.5ppm level.<br />
<br />
*This is approximately 6 medium sized crystals of PP.<br />
*Ensure you know the real water volume of your aquarium and not the stated tank volume as the ornaments, equipment, water level and substrate will lower the manufacturer's stated volume.<br />
<br />
To reduce the smell, place the crystals into a small clear container and add 1L of warm water (preferably [[distilled]] or [[deionized]] water). Stir carefully until the water is deep purple and the crystals are fully dissolved from the bottom. <br />
Then using great care add 5ml slowly into your aquarium and repeat. Stop adding as soon as you see the overall tank water stained very light pink. A {{L|30}} tank may only require 5-10ml. <br />
<br />
*It can be useful to place a white saucer on the floor of the aquarium to observe the water colour.<br />
<br />
Switch off the tank lights (Potassium permanganate rapidly becomes neutralised in light) and ensure the tank is well aerated for the next 12 hours. Turn on the lights briefly once an hour to monitor the water colour (don't be surprised if the light pink colour has gone) and the to monitor the fishes reaction (if they are gasping for air you will need to add more aeration or do a water change). Don't apply any more for a further 12 hours. Reapply after 24 hours have passed from the initial dosage if required.<br />
<br />
*This slow deliberate action will remove the organic matter causing the smell and will increase the ability of the water to hold more [[oxygen]].<br />
<br />
*Smell the water after 48 hours have passed and re-apply if necessary. Depending on the condition of the tank it can take 2 or more applications before you notice an improvement. Don't apply more than 5 treatments within a week.<br />
<br />
*Each time you add this small dosage you should notice that the time it take for the pink colour to disappear should take longer as the ''Potassium permanganate'' destroys the dissolved [[mulm]] and other dead organic material.<br />
===Alternate solution===<br />
Simply engage in regular partial [[water change]]s, and use fresh [[activated carbon]] in your filter(s).<br />
<br />
== Images ==<br />
<gallery><br />
Image:Potassium_Permanganate_Crystals1.jpg|Typical sized crystals<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
==References==<br />
<references/><br />
<br />
== External links ==<br />
*[http://www.alfa.com/content/msds/british/A12170.pdf MSDS Safety Sheet] - read this!<br />
*[https://web.archive.org/web/20100110032456/http://www.fishdoc.co.uk/treatments/potassium%20permanganate.htm Safe Dosage FishDoc (archived)]<br />
*[[w:Potassium permanganate|Wikipedia]]<br />
<br />
*[http://www.koivet.com/a_potassium_permanganate_koi_goldfish_basics.html Potassium permanganate] - by Doc Johnson<br />
*[http://www.koivet.com/a_potassium_permanganate_against_ciliates.html Potassium permanganate] - Daily Regimen for [[Ciliates]] protection by Doc Johnson<br />
<br />
*[https://web.archive.org/web/20081112001934/http://www.mcnearyspondsandaquaticplants.com/html/potassium_permanganate_.html McNeary’s Ponds & Aquatic Plants] - A Protocol for Using Potassium Permanganate in the Treatment of Koi and Goldfish (archived)<br />
<br />
*[http://www.potassium-permanganate-online.com/index.html UK Shop - Potassium permanganate Online]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]<br />
[[Category:Chemical treatments]]<br />
[[Category:Disease treatments]]</div>Quatermasshttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Antibacterial&diff=77002Antibacterial2013-11-27T22:36:09Z<p>Quatermass: Created page with "==Antibacterial== An antibacterial is an agent that inhibits bacterial growth or kills bacteria. The term is often used synonymously with the term antibiotic(s). Today, howe..."</p>
<hr />
<div>==Antibacterial==<br />
<br />
An antibacterial is an agent that inhibits bacterial growth or kills [[bacteria]].<br />
The term is often used synonymously with the term antibiotic(s). Today, however, with increased knowledge of the causative agents of various infectious diseases, antibiotics has come to denote a broader range of antimicrobial compounds, including anti-fungal and other compounds.<br />
<br />
Typical antibacterial drugs used in aquariums are:<br />
<br />
Sodium Sulfathiazole, Sodium Sulfamethazine, and Sodium Sulfacetamide<br />
[[Formaldehyde]], [[Sodium Chloride]], Magnesium Sulphate.<br />
<br />
<br />
Others used but not so effective - [[Malachite Green]], [[Acriflavine]] and [[Methylene blue]].<br />
<br />
==Links==<br />
*[[w:Antibacterial|Antibacterial]]</div>Quatermasshttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Fungus&diff=77001Fungus2013-11-27T22:22:42Z<p>Quatermass: /* Cures */ updated</p>
<hr />
<div>{{stub}}<br />
== About Fungus ==<br />
A '''fungus''' (plural fungi) is a [[w:Eukaryotic|eukaryotic]] organism that digests its food externally and absorbs the nutrient molecules into its cells. Along with [[bacteria]], fungi are the primary decomposers of dead organic matter in most terrestrial ecosystems.<br />
<br />
Fungus propagate via billions of spores which travel through the air and water and settle on all surfaces waiting for a food source to appear and so the fungus can be said to be everywhere waiting for the right conditions.<br />
<br />
Actively growing fungus (typically Saprolegnia, Achlya, Leptomitus, Pythium, and for marine Exophiala, Ichthyophonus) in an aquarium is primary a sign of low quality aquarium conditions by the owner. It appears as fluffy white<sup>*</sup> growths ([[w:Hyphae|Hyphae]]) on any surface in the aquarum looking a lot like lump of cotton wool in fact. <br />
<br />
This is probably why this fungus is often called ''The Cotton Wool Disease''.<br />
<br />
:<sup>*</sup>Note: the colour may turn from white to grey to reddish-brown if allowed to advance.<br />
<br />
<br />
When fungus attacks an aquatic animal then this is almost always due to a break in the skin of the animal which then then allows fungus spores to settle within and start growing, feeding on the decaying flesh of the animal.<br />
<br />
This is called a ''secondary infection'' because usually [[bacteria]] is already present in the wound causing the flesh to decay and so providing a source of food for the fungus.<br />
<br />
==Other Types of Fungus==<br />
*[[Chytrid fungus]] - Affects Frogs.<br />
<br />
*[[Mycorrhizas]] - A beneficial fungus used by plants.<br />
<br />
== Primary causes ==<br />
*Animal injuries due to fighting.<br />
*Knocks on sharp objects.<br />
*Bacterial infection.<br />
<br />
Commonly found on:<br />
*The mouth of the animal.<br />
*Barbels.<br />
*Fins.<br />
*Gill flaps.<br />
*Eggs of animals.<br />
<br />
<br />
A healthy animal will naturally fight off a minor injury infection. But if the animal is stressed (as is often the case if it's a new arrival from another tank or shop) then its immune system may not be able to fight off an infection and the fungus grows and spreads. Eventually the fungus grows so much it interferes with the animals behaviour (especially if it's over the mouth) and can cause death.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Cures ==<br />
Fortunately there are many excellent cures available on the market for the most common Fungus. However there are a few 'snail oil' treatments that have no proven record of working. Basically be aware that 'herbal' or [[w:Tea tree oil|tea-tree oil]] remedies as these are at best very weak in action.<br />
<br />
The most common treatment chemicals called 'fungicides' are:<br />
<br />
*[[Salt]]<br />
*[[Methylene blue]]<br />
*Malachite green<br />
*Gentian violet<br />
*[[Phenoxyethanol]]<br />
*Sodium chlorite<br />
* Stabilized chlorine dioxide<br />
*Various commercial bottles.<br />
<br />
=== Diagnostic ===<br />
There is another disease which looks very similar to 'Cotton Mouth disease and this is actually a serious bacteria infection called [[Mouth fungus]] (it is <U>not</U> a fungus, it is the bacteria ''[[Flexibactor columnaris]]''. So to treat this you'll need a strong bacterial treatment specifically for this and treat as quickly as possible.<br />
<br />
It is difficult to tell the two apart but generally ''F. columnaris'' has a coarser, more granular appearance and can be a dull grey-white than true white fungus.<br />
<br />
=== Treatments ===<br />
The basic four treatments used for decades are : Salt, Methylene blue, Malachite green (or Acriflavine though is this now getting withdrawn as it is toxic to humans)<br />
<br />
==== Salt Bath ====<br />
For years this has been one of the favourite methods to treat fungus as it is cheap and relatively effective.<br />
Basically for freshwater animals, place the creature in a quarantine tank which has a slight salt content.<br />
See [[Salt|Salt article]] for detail. Basically ensure the species is able to tolerate a salt bath, not all animals can and you'd be better to use a commerical fungicide instead if you are unsure.<br />
<br />
Make up a 0.1% salt tank and place the animal in it. Increase dose by 0.1% every 4–6 hours until you get to 1%. (If at any time the animal looks distressed then dilute the salt content by performing water changes) <br />
Leave the animal in the bath for 12 hours at 1%. Then start reducing the salt content slowly by performing water changes over 12 hours until the water is cleared of salt.<br />
<br />
==== Methylene blue ====<br />
This is a dye used in chemistry as a blue staining agent. It has been used for years for destroying fungus, bacteria and parasites.<br />
It is often supplied as a powder or as a pre-prepared liquid and is relatively safe if used correctly.<br />
<br />
*See [[Methylene blue]] article for more detail.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Malachite green ====<br />
This potent chemical dye is used as a 1% solution (typically use 1g of powder dissolved in 100ml of distilled water) and then dapped directly onto the infected area of the fish with a cotton bud daily until the infection is healed. <br />
<br />
Use 0.5% solution if treating [[tetras]] or small fish.<br />
<br />
*Note: This chemical is harmful to humans!<br />
<br />
==== Gentian violet ====<br />
Gentian violet is a water soluble dye (colouring substance) used primarily in medicine to stain bacteria. Treat like Methylene blue. <br />
<br />
<br />
==== Phenoxyethanol ====<br />
Phenoxyethanol is often used as a fish sedative or anaesthetic but also has antibacterial and fungicide properties.<br />
This chemical is used as a 1% solution (typically use 100&nbsp;mg of powder dissolved in 1000ml of distilled water) and dosage is 10ml per litre of quarantine tank water.<br />
Repeat every 2–3 days up to a maximum of 3 times if the animal shows no signs of recovery before performing a 50-60% water change.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Sodium chlorite ====<br />
Used by a few commercial bottles and incorrectly named as 'Stabilised Chlorine oxides'. This is a bleach so the bottle solution will be diluted. Be very careful with dosage when using this chemical.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Fungus treatments/Commercial treatments1]]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]<br />
[[Category:Fungus and fungal diseases]]<br />
[[Category:Diseases]]<br />
[[Category:Fungus]]</div>Quatermasshttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Filtration_FAQ&diff=76901Filtration FAQ2013-11-10T11:02:55Z<p>Quatermass: /* Denitrators */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Aquarium Filtration==<br />
Taken from [http://faq.thekrib.com/filters.html FAQ Aquarium Filtration - The Krib]. See copyright notice below. All conditions are met.<br />
<br />
===Contributed by Bruce Hallman===<br />
===Summary===<br />
This article describes how filtration can help ensure a healthy aquarium. The first half describes what filters are, and how they work. The second half evaluates the different types of filters.<br />
<br />
===Copyright===<br />
The FAQs owe their existence to the contributors of the net, and as such it belongs to the readers of rec.aquaria and alt.aquaria. Articles with attributions are copyrighted by their original authors. Copies of the FAQs can be made freely, as long as it is distributed at no charge, and the disclaimers and the copyright notice are included.<br />
<br />
==1. Why you need Filtration==<br />
Sometimes we forget that fish kept in an aquarium are confined to a very small quantity of water as compared to their natural habitats in the wild. In the wild, fish wastes are instantly diluted. But in an aquarium, waste products can quickly build up to toxic levels. <br />
<br />
These waste products include ammonia released from your fishes' gills, fish poop, and scraps of uneaten food. The food and the poop will also eventually decay, releasing ammonia. Even small amounts of ammonia will kill your fish. <br />
<br />
Obviously, the more sources of fish waste, the quicker and greater the ammonia problem. A small heavily-fed tank with lots of large fish will have much more ammonia than a large tank with one seldom-fed small fish. But for both these cases you need some form of aquarium filtration to control the toxic ammonia. <br />
<br />
Some aquarists try to control ammonia levels exclusively by changing the water. This is helpful, but impractical because of the frequency and size of the water changes required. <br />
<br />
Fortunately, there is an easier way! In fact, the world is full of bacteria that want nothing more than to consume the ammonia and convert it into less toxic substances. For many an aquarist, this process occurs without their knowledge or help. However, the smart aquarist will learn how to take advantage of this beneficial bacteria by maximizing its growth. <br />
<br />
When you start a new fish tank, colonies of beneficial bacteria have not yet had the chance to grow. For a period of several weeks this is hazardous to fish. You must gradually build up the source of ammonia (i.e., start with only one or two small fish) to allow time for the beneficial bacteria to grow. This is called "cycling" your tank. Read more about this in the [[BEGINNER FAQ]]. <br />
<br />
Remember that the bacteria break down the ammonia into substances (first nitrite, then eventually nitrate) that are merely less toxic, rather than non-toxic. Many fish can tolerate reasonably high levels of nitrates, but over time the nitrates will accumulate until they, too, become toxic. Also, because nitrate is a fertilizer, high nitrate levels can lead to excess algae growth. <br />
<br />
===Water changes===<br />
Although there are many ways to remove excess nitrate, the most effective way is to regularly change part of the water. This is one of the most neglected and important parts of aquarium maintenance! <br />
How often and how much you need to change depends a lot on the waste load in your tank, and the sensitivity of your fish. You don't want to change ALL of the water at any point in time because the change in water chemistry will be stressful to your fish. The best way to decide how often and how much to change your water is to monitor your water quality with water tests. As a minimum, if your tank is new, you should test for ammonia and perhaps nitrite. In established tanks you should monitor for nitrate accumulation. Read more about water tests in the [[TEST KIT SECTION]] of the [[BEGINNER FAQ]]. Water tests are the most reliable way to know how well your aquarium filtration works. <br />
<br />
For an average tank, you should change no more than one third of the water in 24 hours. Many aquarists with average aquariums change a quarter of the water every two weeks. Your aquarium is probably not average, and you really should measure nitrate levels to determine your water change schedule. <br />
<br />
===Biological filtration===<br />
''Biological filtration'' is the term for fostering ammonia-neutralizing bacteria growth. It is so important to the health of your aquarium that we should look at how this process works more closely. (There are other types of wastes that can cause problems, but the regular partial water changes needed to control nitrates are typically enough to control other forms of waste as well.) <br />
Mother Nature provides several types of bacteria that break down ammonia into progressively less toxic compounds, nitrite and nitrate. These bacteria are not harmful and are quite abundant in nature. They are so common that we do not need to add them to our aquariums; nature does it for us. <br />
<br />
In the presence of ammonia and oxygen these bacteria will naturally multiply. The bacteria attach to the tank, rocks, gravel, and even tank decorations. Note that we have not yet said anything about a physical filter. This is because biofiltration bacteria require only: <br />
<br />
#A surface upon which to attach,<br />
#ammonia for food, and<br />
#oxygen-rich water.<br />
<br />
This sounds so simple; why do we need a physical filter? <br />
<br />
Actually, if you limit the amount of fish to what the natural biofiltration can handle, you do not need a physical filter. Unfortunately, you cannot support very many fish with only the natural biofiltration. <br />
<br />
In the last few decades, the hobby has seen many new types of biological filters invented which can vastly increase the capacity of the bacteria colony to provide biological filtration to your aquarium. In essence, all of these types of filters provide additional surface area for bacteria attachment and increase the available oxygen dissolved in the water. <br />
<br />
===Mechanical filtration===<br />
Remember that ammonia comes directly from the gills of your fish, but also from decaying fish poop and food scraps. If you can mechanically filter out the poop and the waste food before it gets a chance to decay, you can be a step ahead in the game. Not to mention that these wastes are ugly and can detract from the beauty and enjoyment of your aquarium. <br />
Simply stated, mechanical filtration is the straining of solid particles from the aquarium water. Mechanical filtration does not directly remove dissolved ammonia. Most common mechanical filter media do not remove microscopic bacteria and algae from the water. Neither will mechanical filtration remove any solids trapped by gravel, plants, or decorations. <br />
<br />
You will need another method to remove the solid wastes from the nooks and crannies of your aquarium. One of the easiest methods is to ``vacuum'' the gravel, etc., as part of your regular water change routine and everybody should do this. (Note that those marine aquariums which use ``live substrates'' are an exception.) Some people install circulation pumps, known as wave makers, to improve the chance of catching solid wastes in the mechanical filter. <br />
<br />
The four most popular mechanical filtration media are sponges, paper cartridges, loose and bonded floss media which are reusable to different degrees. Clean paper cartridges have the smallest openings and clean bonded floss has the largest openings. Clean sponges and clean loose floss fall somewhere between. <br />
<br />
A filter media with small openings catches finer particles, but clogs faster. Also, as a rule, a physically large filter area will clog more slowly than a small filter. As the filter media gets dirty it will trap smaller and smaller particles. At some point the media is so clogged that it will not pass water. <br />
<br />
*SUMMARY: A good mechanical filter is one that traps enough solids to keep the water clear without plugging too often.<br />
<br />
===Chemical Filtration===<br />
Chemical filtration, in short, is the removal of dissolved wastes from aquarium water. Dissolved wastes exist in the water at a molecular level, and fall into two general categories, polar and nonpolar. The most common chemical filtration method involves filtering the water through gas activated carbon which works best on the nonpolar wastes (but also removes polar wastes). Another effective method is protein skimming, which removes polar wastes such as dissolved organics. <br />
Granular activated carbon ([[GAC]]) is manufactured from carbon, typically coal, heated in the presence of steam at very high heat. This process causes the carbon to develop huge numbers of tiny pores, which trap nonpolar wastes at the molecular levels by means of adsorption and ion exchange, and removes heavy metals and organic molecules, which are the source of undesirable colours and odours, through a process known as molecular sieving. <br />
<br />
The best [[GAC]] for filtering water is made from coal and is macroporous (having larger pores). A good macroporous activated carbon feels light (not dense) and fizzes and floats when initially wetted. GAC intended for removing wastes from air (such as odours) are commonly made from coconut shell and are microporous. Carbons for filtering air feel more dense. <br />
<br />
Some people (especially those with reef aquaria) are concerned about phosphate leaching from activated carbons. As a rule, buy only carbons made by reputable aquarium supply companies which have been acid washed during manufacture to minimize ash content. Carbons low in ash also help reduce the chance of undesirable pH shifts. Low ash carbons typically have lower phosphate leaching levels too. <br />
<br />
The phosphate in GAC stems from the fact that activated carbon is manufactured from coal, which was once living plant matter. All living matter is high in phosphates. The leaching of phosphate from GAC is known to be high initially and to decrease over time. This problem can be mitigated significantly by presoaking your activated carbon for a few weeks before use. <br />
<br />
Some people are concerned about GAC removing trace elements required by plants and invertebrates for healthy growth. Trace element depletion is a problem in planted aquaria and minireefs, with or without activated carbon. The potential benefits of activated carbon are great enough that on whole you will be better off using it. If trace element depletion is a worry, use a trace element supplement in conjunction with the activated carbon. <br />
<br />
GAC cannot be rejuvenated outside a laboratory, but fortunately, it is cheap enough to use liberally. Always wash your carbon before use to remove the dust that accumulates during shipment. Advice on how much to use vary, but smaller amounts changed more frequently seem to work best. You probably want to experiment, but 1/2 cup per 20 gallons water, changed monthly is a good starting point. In summary, activated carbon is an excellent, cheap and effective filtration method which is highly recommended for all aquaria. <br />
<br />
A variety of special chemical filtration media have been developed to remove specific chemicals. A common one is made from the zeolite clay (also used as some cat litters), and is marketed under such brand names as ``Ammo-Carb''. This media removes ammonia from water, and is good for short term use. The aquarist should be aware that if zeolite is used, especially when cycling a new aquarium, then the establishment of natural biological filtration will be delayed or disrupted. <br />
<br />
Protein skimmers are primarily used in saltwater aquaria, especially reefs. They have the remarkable ability to remove dissolved organic wastes before they decompose. The process involves taking advantage of the polar nature of the organic molecules, which are attracted to the surface of air bubbles injected into a column of water. The resultant foam is skimmed off and discarded.<br />
<br />
==2. FILTER TYPES==<br />
===The humble corner filter===<br />
For decades, hobbyists have successfully kept fish healthy and happy through the use of the $2.49 corner filter. Typically, they are clear plastic boxes, which sit inside the tank. An air stone bubbles air through an air lift tube, which forces water through a bed of filter floss or other media. mechanically filtering the water. Colonies of bacteria build up on the media, providing excellent biological filtration. (It is important to change only some of the media at any given time! This way the bacteria does not get wiped out.) Nowadays people don't use corner filters as much because they're ugly, take up space in the tank, and require a bit more frequent maintenance than other filters. But you can't beat the price. <br />
Another use of the corner filter, that is not really matched by other filter types, is as an impromptu quarantine tank filter. If you have the need to set up a second tank on the quick, you can take some gravel from an established tank and put it in a corner filter, and immediately, you will have a functioning biological filter. This way you can turn a five gallon bucket into a quick and cheap hospital/quarantine tank on a moment's notice. <br />
<br />
===Undergravel Filters===<br />
Fish stores commonly sell undergravel filters (UGF's) to beginners in ``aquarium kits'' because they are cheap, and they work (for a while). UGF's work by slowly passing water through the bottom gravel, which sits on top of a perforated plate. The water can be pumped with an air lift, with bubbles air lifting the water in a vertical tube attached to the filter plate. Also, some people prefer the increased water flow achieved with submersible pumps, called powerheads, attached to the same lift tubes. <br />
<br />
UGF's make good biological filters, because the slow flow of water through the gravel fosters large colonies of beneficial bacteria which neutralize toxic ammonia. The hitch is, that UGF's are awful mechanical filters. Fish waste gets pulled out of sight into the gravel. Before you know it, the gravel clogs up. You then have a big mess and a health risk to your fish! <br />
<br />
A partial solution to this dilemma is to run the powerhead in reverse, sending water up through the gravel. This technique is known as Reverse-flow Undergravel Filtration (RUGF); conversion kits or special powerheads can be purchased to accomplish this. The intake of the powerhead is covered with a porous sponge which serves to "prefilter" out some of the waste that can clog the gravel. In actually practice, this helps, but is only a partial solution. <br />
<br />
If you choose to use an UGF/RUGF, you must regularly vacuum your gravel. Fish stores sell siphon hoses with a "wide mouth gravel vacuum tube" attachment that "washes" the gravel during your regular water changes. IF you clean your gravel regularly, and maintain a regular and frequent partial water routine, UGF's and RUGF's are an economical and effective aquarium filter in freshwater aquariums, and in lightly stocked saltwater fish-only aquariums. <br />
<br />
===Sponge filters===<br />
Sponge filters provide an efficient and cheap form of biological filtration. Water is forced through a porous foam, either by a powerhead, or air bubbling through an airlift tube. Water flowing though the sponge allows the growth of a colony of beneficial bacteria which neutralizes toxic ammonia. <br />
<br />
One style of sponge filter uses two sponges attached to one lift tube. These have the advantage that the sponges can be cleaned one at a time, reducing bacterial loss. Also, one of the sponges can be removed and transferred to a new tank, bringing with it a colony of beneficial bacteria, and thereby "jump starting" the cycling of a new tank. Some enlightened fish stores sell these double sponge filters to beginner customers when they sell a tank kit. They take one of the new sponges out of the "box" and swap it for a old established sponge in one of their tanks in their store which is carried home in a plastic bag. <br />
<br />
===Power filters===<br />
Most people agree that power filters are much easier to maintain and can be as economical as undergravel filters. There are many styles of power filters, but the most common hangs on the back of the tank. A siphon tube pulls water from the tank into the filter box and passes the water though a mechanical filter (typically a porous foam sponge). The sponge doubles as a biological filter. A internal pump then returns the filtered water into the aquarium. These power filters come in many sizes suited for small to large aquariums. <br />
The foam sponge can be easily inspected for clogging or removed for cleaning. You must clean the sponge regularly to remove the solid wastes before they decompose and dissolve back into the water. It is quite important that when you clean the porous foam that you do not kill the bacteria colony through the use of detergents, very hot or very cold water. A safe and easy way is to rinse the foam sponge in the bucket into which you have just drained some tank water during your regular water change routine. <br />
<br />
Power filters now come with all sorts of fancy ``features''. Most allow placement of a chemical filtering media, typically granular activated carbon, in the water path. <br />
<br />
Another development in the last few years is the ``wet-dry wheel'' (called a biowheel by one manufacturer). The beneficial bacterial colonies that neutralize toxic ammonia require an oxygen rich environment to grow. The ``wet-dry wheel'' passes water over a water wheel device which sits outside (on the edge) of the aquarium. This rotating wheel maximizes available oxygen allowing a large bacteria colony to flourish. One drawback is that these wheels have been known to jam, so you need to check them frequently. Other than this minor point, the ``wet-dry wheel'' is an excellent method of providing vigorous biological filtration. <br />
<br />
===The Canister filter===<br />
Canister filters have some similarities with the hang-on-tank style of power filters, but the essential difference is that canister filters are designed to provide more powerful mechanical filtration. Typically, the water is pumped, at moderate pressure through a filter material, such as glass wool, or a micron filter cartridge. Canister filters are especially useful in aquaria with large or numerous messy eaters that generate a lot of waste. For these filters to be effective they must be frequently cleaned, to avoid the decomposition of waste in the water stream. <br />
<br />
These filters usually sit on the floor below the tank, but also can hang on the tank, and in some designs even sit inside the tank, in which case they are called a ``submersible filter''. Some hobbyists attach a ``wet-dry wheel'' to the outflow of their canister to improve the biological filtration capacity of this type of filtration system.<br />
<br />
===Wet/Dry Filters===<br />
Also known as trickle filters, wet/dry filters work on the principle that the beneficial colonies of ammonia neutralizing bacteria grow best in the presence of well oxygenated water. By ``trickling'' water over unsubmerged plastic gizmos or other media, wet/dry filters provide a very large air/water surface area. They come in many shapes and sizes. The boom in successful saltwater aquariums in the 1980's can be attributed to the use of this filter type. <br />
<br />
Many things can used for the media, with the best providing great amounts of surface area, while at the same time having large openings to reduce the tendency to clog and ensure efficient gas exchange. The problem of clogging of the media can also be reduced by prefiltering the water with an efficient mechanical filter, and (when used) with a protein skimmer. <br />
<br />
===Protein skimmers (aka Foam Fractionators)===<br />
Protein skimmers were initially developed for use in industrial sewage treatment plants where they are also known by the term foam fractionator. Protein skimmers have the unique ability to remove dissolved organic wastes BEFORE they decompose! This is a neat trick which is accomplished by taking advantage of the fact that organic chemicals are attracted to the surfaces of bubbles which are passed in large numbers through a column of water. The foam is then ``skimmed'' off the water, while at the same time removing the organic wastes. The foaming process only works in a water with high pH and salinity, and as a result skimmers are primarily for saltwater use. <br />
<br />
The protein skimmer is largely responsible for the boom in reef aquaria in the 1990's, due to the high water quality possible with this type of filtration. A current ``state of the art'' in reef systems is based upon the use of protein skimmers and live rock without the use of a wet/dry filter. This school of thought is known as the ``Berlin method''. <br />
<br />
===Fluidized bed filters===<br />
Very recently, some hobbyists have reported success with a new type of filter which uses a fluidized bed of sand. This filter is roughly similar in principle to the reverse flow undergravel filter, but with much higher water flow. The higher water flow keeps the sand clean of debris, while at the same time allowing the development of large and efficient colonies of beneficial bacteria. Reported problems include oxygen depletion and clogging.<br />
<br />
===Denitrators===<br />
Another specialized type of filter is designed to help in the control of the accumulation of nitrates, the end product of the neutralization of ammonia by the biological activity of bacteria. These fall into two categories, the [[anoxic]] bacterial, and the plant/algal scrubbers (discussed in the next section). It has been discovered that colonies of bacteria which grow in oxygen poor environments can be harnessed to biologically consume nitrate, and release harmless nitrogen gas. This method is achieved in one of two ways. The process was first developed in the 1980s through the use of a box system, coil, or porous foam block which allowed very slow transmission of nitrate-laden water. Inside the box/coil/foam, sugar was placed, and the slow passage of water quickly became anoxic. In these anoxic conditions, bacteria would grow and consume excess nitrate. Many aquarists have reported failure in their attempts at this type of filtration. Though this author has had success by using a 20M length of air pipe and dripping out the water at the rate of a drop a second, slowly building it up to 5 drops a second over several weeks.<br />
<br />
In the recent years, aquarists have started to achieve nitrate reduction aerobically in both fresh and saltwater aquarium by using bacteria mixes. You add the bacteria and over time they consume the nitrate. Alternatives methods are adding carefully controlled amounts of sugar or pure alcohol to feed naturally existing anaerobic bacteria in your aquarium which then consume nitrate. See [[Nitrate##Removing_Nitrate|removing nitrate]] for more on this.<br />
<br />
More recently, hobbyists have developed similar anoxic conditions below plates at the bottom of their tanks buried in fine sand. In the saltwater systems, these sand beds are referred to as "live sand". In freshwater planted systems, fine grain substrates are allowed to develop anoxic zones which probably also have a de-nitrification capability. <br />
<br />
The Berlin Method of reef aquariums involves the use of large quantities of live rock harvested from tropical reefs. Aquarists report good nitrate control in live rock systems, which, though not well understood, probably involves the de-nitrification of the nitrates within the interior of the rocks. Another school of thought is that the heavy growths of calcareous algae on the live rocks in Berlin Method reef aquariums consume nitrate.<br />
<br />
===Algal Scrubbers===<br />
Algal scrubbers use live algae to do the "filtration". Water is run over a wire mesh in a trough under bright lights, where algae is encouraged to grow. The growth of the algae removes some pollutants from the water. This is a controversial form of filtration for reefs and large marine ecosystems invented by Dr. Adey at the Smithsonian. Some believe it is a complete filtration solution, others claim its use leads to poor water quality and algae growth in the tank as well. In freshwater planted aquariums vigorous plant growth has been observed to beneficially consume excess dissolved nitrates.<br />
<br />
===Chillers===<br />
While not really a filtration, saltwater aquarists occasionally have the need to lower the temperature of their aquarium water. The high light levels needed in reef aquaria involve a build up of excess heat. Use of a hood fan and removal of the ballast from the vicinity of the tank can also help. Submerged pumps are also a source of unwanted heat, and as a solution, reef aquarists favor the ``non-submerged'' pumps due to the decreased transfer of heat to the water. <br />
<br />
A little recognized source of heat control is through the natural cooling effect of evaporation in wet dry filters, and through the flow of air over the surface of the aquarium. Nevertheless, additional cooling is often required, especially in warm climates. <br />
<br />
This is achieved through the use of "freon" style cooler units similar to home refrigerators. They either pass the water through a heat exchange unit, or pass coolant through a heat exchanger in the tank. Those chillers are expensive but not many people have had success in the "do it yourself" construction of chillers. (The "dorm" type of refrigerator is not powerful enough to be of use, just in case you were thinking about this.) <br />
<br />
===Sterilization===<br />
In especially sensitive aquaria, infections resulting from water born parasites, fungi, bacterium and vires can cause serious problems. Water sterilization is most beneficial for breeders (as it can help control infections of incubating eggs), for centralized multi-tank filtration (to control the spread of disease between tanks), and for delicate and/or costly setups such as large tanks and reef systems (as a safety measure). It is important to remember that a healthy aquarium depends on beneficial bacteria typically growing on media in your filter which neutralize ammonia. At most, your sterilizer can kill some water born pathogens, but total sterilization is not possible or desirable. Aquarists who practice prudent quarantine procedures for newly acquired fish generally do not need to sterilize. <br />
<br />
Two main types of sterilization are used, ozone injection and ultraviolet irradiation.: <br />
<br />
===Ozone===<br />
Ozone gas is highly reactive and is a powerful oxidizer of organic pollutants, including living pathogens. Another benefit of water treatment with ozone gas is that it systematically reduces dissolved organic compounds in the water stream which increases the reserve capacity of the water to oxidize organic waste throughout the aquarium. Ozone laden water also improves the ability of protein skimmers to generate foam which increases their overall performance.<br />
<br />
Prior to the discovery of the live rock/protein skimmer "Berlin Method" style of reef keeping, ozone injection was considered part of a "state of the art" filtration system, especially among Europeans in the 1980s. The trend of late is towards the more simple and natural Berlin Method. Though ozone use remains beneficial, it is being used less in recent years among reef keepers. <br />
<br />
Ozone gas is produced by devices which create a spark in dry air. As humidity drastically reduces the efficiency of ozone generators most aquarist choose to pretreat the air for the ozonizer with a dehumidifier. Ozone gas is highly corrosive, all elements (especially rubber) which can come in contact with ozone must be made from ozone safe materials (commonly silicone). Residual ozone can be efficiently stripped from air by passing the air through activated carbon. Ozone must not be allowed to enter your aquarium because it can kill your fish and invertebrates and/or damage the beneficial bacterial in your biological filter. Also, ozone gas is unsafe to breath and can cause irritation even in small concentrations. <br />
<br />
===Ultraviolet Sterilizers===<br />
High intensity ultraviolet light destroys the DNA in living cells and can be an effective means to control living pathogens. The most effective UV light is the high energy UV(C) light roughly at the wavelength of 250 Angstroms. To be effective, UV Sterilization (UVS) must expose the pathogens to high enough light intensity for a long enough period of time. Martin Moe cites 35,000 to 100,000 microwatts per second per square centimeter as the norm, which works out to roughly 10 to 25 gallons per hour per watt (or less for units not operating at peak efficiency). <br />
<br />
Common problems which can reduce efficiency and kill rate are: <br />
<br />
#Allowing the water to flow too fast past the UV light.<br />
#Light blockage due to a build up of salt deposits or bacterial slime on the bulb.<br />
#Fading of the light due to age of the bulb (which typically have a six month life.)<br />
<br />
The same property of this light that kills germs can damage your eyes, and special care MUST BE TAKEN to avoid direct or indirect eye contact with this light. [This is especially serious because the damage occurs inside your eyes before you feel any pain. Too many people have already damaged their eyes in this way!] The UV(C) light does not penetrate water very well, so to be effective, UV Sterilizers commonly position the UV bulb close to the water which also can pose a risk of electrical shock should the bulb break, etc.<br />
<br />
There are three types of UV Sterilizers: <br />
<br />
#Tray type. (Typically homemade) with UV bulbs suspended in a reflecting fixture over a shallow tray of slow flowing water. Benefits: easily cleaned, can be cheap, can be made large enough for commercial applications. Problems: safety risks to your eyes, too large and awkward for many home uses.<br />
#Tube type, wet bulb. Tube types have the benefit of exposing all sides of the UV tube to water with no reflector. The water passes directly past the bulb which is mounted in a waterproof tube. Benefits: cheap, compact and effective. Problems: difficult to clean the slime accumulations from the bulb, safety risks due to electrical shock.<br />
#Tube type, dry bulb. Similar to above, but the UV tube is surrounded by a quartz tube [glass blocks UV(C) light] insulating it from the water. These are more expensive and probably safer. Changing the light bulb is easier and dry bulb tube types can have a internal device to wipe slime from the quartz tube. Some of these types come with sensors to monitor the intensity of the light to let you know when to replace/clean the bulb. etc.<br />
<br />
===To learn more===<br />
See the [[RESOURCE FAQ]] for several good books. A good reference work for aquarium filtration is Marine Aquarium Reference (Systems and Invertebrates) by Martin Moe <br />
<br />
[[Category:Articles]]<br />
<br />
<br />
===References===<br />
<references/></div>Quatermasshttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=BioSpira&diff=76877BioSpira2013-11-05T23:28:16Z<p>Quatermass: updated</p>
<hr />
<div>'''Bio-Spira''' <u>was</u> a commercial aquarium product by MarineLand Labs.<br />
<br />
This product was a landmark in the history of the aquarium hobby as this liquid product allowed the fish keeper to add aquatic animals to a newly set up tank within 24 hours without any harm coming to the animals due to '[[New Tank Syndrome]]'.<br />
<br />
*There is a freshwater and marine versions. Ensure you use the correct type for your tank.<br />
<br />
*[[Tetra]] from 2007 now sells a version of Bio-Spira called [[SafeStart]].<br />
<br />
==Tips on buying Bio-Spira==<br />
*This product has a best-before-date. So ensure the date indicates that the product is still fresh and has at least 6 months of life left.<br />
*The product needs to be kept cold if it is to last to its expiry date. So the shop should be keeping it in a refrigerator. So ensure the packet you buy feels cold.<br />
*Don't buy it if it's frozen, that kills the contents.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Buy out==<br />
[http://www.spectrumbrands.com/ Spectrum Brands] bought over [[Marineland Labs]] in late 2006 and shut the California facility down and merged it with [[Tetra]]. Sprectrum moved the Bio-Spira production <br />
to the Tetra facility in Melle Germany. Safestart uses the same patent ([http://v3.espacenet.com/textdoc?DB=EPODOC&IDX=EP1282688 EP1282688]) as BIO-Spira.<br />
<br />
==See also==<br />
*[[Bacteria bottles do they work|Bacteria seeding bottles, do they work?]]<br />
<br />
<br />
== Links ==<br />
*[http://www.marineland.com/ MarineLand Labs]<br />
*[http://web.archive.org/web/20040804140933/www.marineland.com/science/nspira.asp BioSpira Home as of 2004] (Archived link)<br />
*[http://aquamaniacs.net/forum/cms_view_article.php?aid=36 Interview with Dr. Timothy A. Hovanec. The Chief Science Officer of the Aquaria Group and inventor of BioSpira]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]<br />
[[Category:Products]]</div>Quatermasshttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Category:Bacteria_treatments/Commercial_treatments1&diff=76370Category:Bacteria treatments/Commercial treatments12013-08-29T11:28:17Z<p>Quatermass: /* API (Aquarium Pharmaceuticals) */</p>
<hr />
<div>===Commercial treatments===<br />
====[[King British]]====<br />
*[http://www.sinclair-sahc.com/page_info.asp?ContentID=50&CatID=1 Fin Rot & Fungus Control] (contains 2-Phenoxyethanol 5.66 %w/w) <ref name="vmd" /><br />
*[http://www.sinclair-sahc.com/page_info.asp?ContentID=50&CatID=1 Disease Clear] (contains [http://chestofbooks.com/health/materia-medica-drugs/American-Medical-Association/A-Handbook-of-Useful-Drugs/Protargol-Protargol-N-N-R-Silver-Proteinate.html Protargol] 0.151%w/w (Silver proteinate) <ref name="vmd">[http://www.vmd.gov.uk/ProductInfo/AuthMed/small.htm Veterinary Medicines Marketed under the Small Animal Exemption Scheme], [[VMD]]</ref>)<br />
*[http://www.sinclair-sahc.com/page_info.asp?ContentID=50&CatID=1 Bacteria Control] (contains [[Formaldehyde]] (35.6 % solution) 10.92 % w/w, [[Sodium Chloride]] 0.60 %w/w, [[Magnesium Sulphate]] 0.30 %w/w % [[Allantoin]] 0.04 %w/w) <ref name="vmd" /><br />
<br />
*[http://www.sinclair-sahc.com/page_info.asp?ContentID=50&CatID=1 Methylene Blue] (contains [[Methylene Blue]] 2.44 %w/w) <ref name="vmd" /><br />
<br />
====[[Interpet]]====<br />
*No.8 - Anti Fungus and Fin Rot<br />
*No.10 - Methylene Blue<br />
*[http://interpetcatalogue.com/index.php?id=973&limit=500 Catalogue]<br />
<br />
====[http://www.waterlife.co.uk/ WaterLife]====<br />
*[http://www.waterlife.co.uk/waterlife/myxazin.htm Myxazin] - broad spectrum bactericide (contains Formaldehyde 0.12%w/w, [[Malachite Green]] 0.085% w/w, [[Acriflavine]] Hydrochloride 0.055% w/w) <ref name="onthebottle">Chemical information on the product</ref><br />
<br />
====[http://www.petsathome.com/ Pets at Home]====<br />
*Disease Treatment (contains [http://chestofbooks.com/health/materia-medica-drugs/American-Medical-Association/A-Handbook-of-Useful-Drugs/Protargol-Protargol-N-N-R-Silver-Proteinate.html Protargol] 0.151% w/w (Silver proteinate) <ref name="onthebottle" /><br />
<br />
====[http://aquariumpharm.com/ API (Aquarium Pharmaceuticals)]====<br />
*[http://aquariumpharm.com/Products/Product.aspx?ProductID=58 E.M. Erythromycin™ Powder] - Broad spectrum Antibiotic. (contains [[Sodium chloride]] >80%, erythromycin phosphate 1-10%, [[w:Amorphous_silica|Amorphous silica]] 1-5%. See [http://aquariumpharm.com/cms/Files/MSDS/EMErythromycinPowder_2981.pdf MSDS])<br />
*[http://aquariumpharm.com/Products/Product.aspx?ProductID=61 Furan-2™ Powder] - Kills gram-positive & gram-negative bacteria (contains [[Sodium chloride]] >90%, Nitrofurazone 1-5%, silica amorphous 1-5%, furazolidone < 1%. See [http://aquariumpharm.com/cms/Files/MSDS/Furan2Powder_2979.pdf MSDS])<br />
*[http://aquariumpharm.com/Products/Product.aspx?ProductID=56 Melafix®] (contains Melaleuca, as [[w:Cajuput|Cajuput oil]] 1%. See [http://www.apifishcare.com/pdf/Mela-Fix.pdf MSDS])<br />
*[http://aquariumpharm.com/Products/Product.aspx?ProductID=57 PimaFix™] Anti Fungal & Bacterial (contains bay oil 1%. See [http://aquariumpharm.com/cms/Files/MSDS/PimaFix_2465.pdf MSDS])<br />
*[http://aquariumpharm.com/Products/Product.aspx?ProductID=65 T.C. Tetracycline™ Powder] - Kills gram-negative bacteria (contains [[Sodium chloride]] >60%, tetracycline hydrochloride 10-30%, amorphous silica 1-5%. See [http://aquariumpharm.com/cms/Files/MSDS/TCTetracyclinePowder_2977.pdf MSDS])<br />
*[http://aquariumpharm.com/Products/Product.aspx?ProductID=66 Triple Sulfa™ Powder] three sulfa antibacterial medications (contains [[Sodium chloride]] >60%, sulfathiazole 10-30%, sulfamethazine 1-10%, sulfacetamide sodium 1-10%, amorphous silica 1-5%. See [http://aquariumpharm.com/cms/Files/MSDS/TripleSulfaPowder_2976.pdf MSDS])<br />
<br />
====[http://www.tetra-fish.co.uk Tetra UK]====<br />
*[http://www.tetra-fish.co.uk/tetra/go/7B4FA824079E3BE3B2540904EC663F1D/?seite=6&group_id=425&group_2_id=12&lang_id=20 TetraMedica GeneralTonic] Kills bacteria, fungus and parasites.<br />
====[http://www.tetra-fish.com/ Tetra USA]====<br />
*[http://www.tetra-fish.com/sites/tetrafish/catalog/productdetail.aspx?id=1276&cid=5311 Lifeguard™] All-in-One - Kills bacteria, fungus and parasites.<br />
<br />
====[http://www.junglelabs.com/ Jungle Labs] (USA)====<br />
*[http://www.junglelabs.com/pages/details.asp?item=TT101 Lifeguard] - All-in-One - Kills bacteria, fungus and parasites (contains HaloShield (1-chloro-2,2,5,5-tetramethyl-4-imidazolidinone))<br />
*[http://www.junglelabs.com/pages/details.asp?item=JF165 Anti-Bacteria Medicated Fish Food] - for bacterial Infections (Mouth rot)<br />
*[http://www.junglelabs.com/pages/details.asp?item=NJ010 Binox (Crystal)] Broad range anti-bacterial and Fungus treatment contains Nitrofurazone <9%. See [http://www.clubjungle.com/uploads/msds/Binox.pdf MSDS])<br />
<br />
====[https://www.pondrx.com/products/16166.html PondRX USA]====<br />
*TRICIDE-Neo™ - Antibacterial Dip - a concentrate of NeoMycin antibiotic <ref>[http://www.koivet.com/koivet/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=108:tricide-neo-antibacterial-dip-or-spray-on-medication-for-koi&catid=36:medicine-treatments&Itemid=57 Tricide Neo tris-EDTA Solution Against Bacterial Infections]</ref><br />
<br />
===References===<br />
<references/></div>Quatermasshttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Responsible_fishkeeping&diff=76366Responsible fishkeeping2013-08-29T11:12:44Z<p>Quatermass: </p>
<hr />
<div>'''Responsible fishkeeping''' is the central philosophy of The Aquarium Wiki. This concept, hopefully, informs all the information that is presented here.<br />
<br />
Responsible fishkeeping involves every aspect of the hobby, from the wild and tame sources of our pets, to the final results of what we do. As such, we believe that:<br />
<br />
*Living organisms should never be harmed or depleted in their natural environment for the purposes of supplying hobbyists.<br />
**Likewise, the natural environment should not be harmed in the collecting of specimens.<br />
*Whenever possible, tank-bred and raised organisms should be favored over wild-caught.<br />
*The life of every organism matters. Every process from capture through maintenance in the aquarium should endeavour to reduce loss of life, disease, and even discomfort.<br />
*Only responsible breeders, wholesalers, and retailers should be patronized.<br />
*Every experiment or application of new technology at each stage should set as its primary axiom minimizing harm to living creatures.<br />
*Teaching those we encounter, from fellow hobbyists, to retailers and their employees, the best practices is of a high priority.<br />
*When treating creatures for disease, or [[Euthanasia|euthanizing]] when necessary, the most humane methods possible should be used.<br />
*Natural environments should never be contaminated by released exotics. All transport and other handling of exotics should be managed to avoid such release, even under conditions of accidents.<br />
*Manufacturers of equipment and supplies should be encouraged to be honest and fully forthcoming about any claims they make for their products.<br />
*While much information shared in this hobby is of an anecdotal nature, all should be encouraged to study and share the underlying science of the state of the art.</div>Quatermasshttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Prime&diff=76364Prime2013-08-28T13:07:38Z<p>Quatermass: /* Special notes */</p>
<hr />
<div>'''Prime '''is a commercial [[water conditioner]] made by [http://www.seachem.com/ Seachem].<br />
[[Image:Prime All sizes.jpg|thumb|right]]<br />
This is a high quality liquid product that is highly respected by aquarist hobbyists throughout the World.<br />
<br />
By adding it to your aquarium water you can instantly remove [[chlorine]], [[chloramine]] and renders the released [[ammonia]] nontoxic for 24 hours <ref>[http://www.seachem.com/support/forums/showthread.php?t=3148 "Prime's life in a freshwater tank"]</ref>. It also detoxifies [[nitrite]] and [[nitrate]] so that they too have no ill effect on the aquatic animals in your tank.<br />
<br />
It renders toxic Ammonia into nontoxic [[Ammonium]] which nitrifying bacteria can still consume. <br />
<br />
It also detoxifies any [[heavy metals]] that may be present in your tap water.<br />
<br />
Available in different sizes bottles, 5ml of this liquid per {{L|200}} can remove 0.8&nbsp;mg/L [[ammonia]], 1.2&nbsp;mg/L [[chloramine]], or 3.3&nbsp;mg/L [[chlorine]]. Or putting it another way, 1ml can detoxify a {{L|40}} tank of the above levels.<br />
<br />
*Seachem claims it is the second highest concentrated water conditioner on the market after their other product [[Aquavitro Alpha]].<ref>[http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/Prime.html "Prime® is the second most concentrated dechlorinator on the market"]</ref><br />
<br />
*Seachem also sells Prime in its dry powder form as [http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/Safe.html Safe]<br />
<br />
*Seachem claim it doesn't significantly reduce oxygen in the water unless, seriously overdosed or there is no nitrogen compounds to remove.<ref>[http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3278869&postcount=126 Over-dosing Prime reduces oxygen? - Official reply by Gmerice Lafayette-Research Manager of Seachem]</ref><br />
<br />
*Seachem claim that by using five times the normal dosage it will remove Nitrate.<ref>[http://www.seachem.com/support/forums/showthread.php?t=2808 Prime Dosage for Nitrate Removal]</ref><br />
<br />
<br />
==Use==<br />
Aquarists can use this daily in conjunction with a bacteria starter product like [[Stability]], [[BIO-Spira]] or [[Safestart]] to instantly make up a new aquarium safely within 24 hours and cause no harm to the animals with a typical cycling time of 5 days or less.<br />
<br />
==Special notes==<br />
Prime like all other water conditioners will cause most common test kits to read a false high nitrogen level.<br />
For example if testing for ammonia, [[Salicylate]] or [[Nessler]] based kits determine the total ammonia by raising the pH of the test solution to 12 or greater. At this high pH all ammonia removal products will breakdown and re-release the ammonia, thus giving you a false ammonia reading (it was probably only [[Ammonium]]). Same goes for nitrite or nitrate.<br />
*Seachem's [http://www.seachem.com/Products/Testing.html Multitest] Ammonia kit use a different method and therefore their kit reading is not affected by any water conditioner chemical. But their Nitrate/Nitrite multitest kit will be. <ref>Seachem Support - [http://www.seachem.com/support/forums/showthread.php?t=4055 Prime and Nitrite levels]</ref><br />
*Tip: Leave a sample of the water out in a cup for 24 hours and retest it for ammonia then. Any Prime in the sample will have gone by then.<br />
<br />
==Availability==<br />
This product is usually found in the better range of aquarium and pet shops in USA and Europe. It is widely available online.<br />
<br />
==References==<br />
<references/><br />
<br />
==Links==<br />
*[http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/Prime.html Prime by Seachem]<br />
*[http://www.seachem.com/support/FAQs/Prime.html Prime FAQ by Seachem]<br />
*See also [[Water conditioners]]<br />
<br />
==Stockists==<br />
*[http://www.aquaessentials.co.uk/ UK - AQUAessentials]<br />
*[http://www.aquatics-online.co.uk/ UK - Aquatics online]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]<br />
[[Category:Products]]<br />
[[Category:Water conditioners]]</div>Quatermasshttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=The_Nitrogen_Cycle&diff=76351The Nitrogen Cycle2013-08-28T11:53:08Z<p>Quatermass: Removed incorrect line. Bacteria can still eat Ammonium</p>
<hr />
<div>== What is the Nitrogen Cycle? ==<br />
The nitrogen cycle describes the process whereby ammonia products, which are secreted by animals as waste, are converted by bacteria to [[nitrite]] and then into [[nitrate]]. <br />
<br />
Ammonia and nitrite are highly toxic to fish in very low concentrations, so establishing the bacteria colonies that quickly convert these compounds to nitrate is crucial to creating a healthy environment for fish. Nitrate are far less toxic, and can easily be removed through periodic water changes or consumption by live plants. Most fish mortality in new tanks can be traced to the lack of an established nitrogen cycle in the tank.<br />
<br />
Fish excrete urea, which contains ammonia. In a new tank that does not have the necessary bacteria colonies, this ammonia will rapidly accumulate to the point where it is toxic to the fish. Depending on the size of the tank and the number of fish, the ammonia may become toxic within one day to a week or so. <br />
<br />
[[New Tank Syndrome]] (NTS) describes a tank that does not have the necessary bacteria colonies, and which kills fish as a result.<br />
<br />
Every new tank must under go what is known as [[Cycling]]. During this time you must closely watch your tank and monitor the levels of [[ammonia]], [[nitrite]], and [[nitrate]]. By monitoring these parameters you will be able to tell when your tank has become habitable for fish, or if it is still in the Cycling phase.<br />
<br />
== Steps of the cycle ==<br />
=== Ammonia ===<br />
The cycle is started when ammonia ([[nh3|NH3]]) is introduced into the tank as fish waste. This ammonia builds up until the bacteria that eat it start to form a colony (a bacteria [[bloom]] may be observed as white cloudyness within the tank), and can convert the ammonia to nitrite as fast as they are produced. When the amount of ammonia spikes, and starts to decline, you know you are going into the second phase of the cycle.<br />
<br />
=== Nitrites ===<br />
As your ammonia starts to decline, you will see the [[nitrite]] levels rise then spike. Nitrites are the byproduct of the ammonia-eating bacteria, and are also highly toxic to fish. Like the cycling in step one, you must build up enough nitrites to form a second colony of bacteria that will dispose of them as they are produced. These bacteria will in turn create [[nitrate]]. Once your levels of nitrites AND ammonia have reached 0ppm ("parts per million"), your tank is said to have been cycled.<br />
<br />
=== Nitrates ===<br />
[[Nitrates]] are the final product of the nitrogen cycle. Nitrates are not toxic to fish in low concentrations, although they become toxic somewhere above 20ppm depending on the species. <br />
<br />
There are two methods of keeping the level of nitrates at acceptable levels. The first is regular partial water changes (20-50% every 1–4 weeks, depending on stocking levels). The second is adding plants to the tank - nitrate levels can drop to 0ppm in a heavily planted tank. However water changes are still necessary to remove other substances such as [[DOC]]s (dissolved organic compounds), solid fish waste and replenish dissolved minerals that aquatic animals and plants may need.<br />
<br />
==How to Start Your Cycle==<br />
[[Image:Cycling graph.png|thumb|350px]]<br />
===Fishless Cycle Method===<br />
The [[Fishless cycling|fishless cycle]] is becoming very popular with aquarists because<br />
#It is faster<br />
#It is considered more humane<br />
The [[Fishless cycling|fishless cycle]] consists of artificially adding ammonia to the tank instead of using fish waste straight from the animals. This can be accomplished in multiple ways.<br />
<br />
One of the more popular methods for [[Fishless cycling|fishless cycling]] would be to pour straight household liquid ammonia into the tank (can usually be found at home improvement stores etc). This method is the fastest cycling method, however it takes more attention. You must make sure the product contains nothing but ammonia and water. You will need to constantly monitor your tank’s levels to keep them at an acceptable rate.<br />
<br />
Another method that can work is the "Raw Shrimp Method", however while this is often successful, it also can introduce Saprolegnia into a new aquarium. Despite the many Internet sources that push this method, it is best to avoid for the many better methods.<ref>{{cite web|title=Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle; Raw Shrimp Cycling|url=http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Nitrogen_Cycle.html#rawshrimp}}</ref><br />
<br />
For more details on [[Fishless cycling]], please read this article.<br />
<br />
=== Fish In Cycle Method===<br />
[[Image:Aquarium-NitrogenCycle.png|thumb|350px|Complete chemical cycle with fish<br><br />
<br />
1-[[Food]] is given to fish.<br />
2-[[Ammonia]] is given off.<br />
3-[[Bacteria]] converts it to [[Nitrite]].<br />
4-Bacteria converts [[Nitrite]] to [[Nitrate]].<br />
5-Water changes carried out to reduce levels of [[Nitrate]].<br />
6-Sunlight enables plants to [[photosynthesis]].<br />
7-Bacteria in the [[substrate]] breaks down [[Mulm]].<br />
8-Plants give off [[Oxygen]] when lit.<br />
9-Plants absorb [[Carbon dioxide]] during the day to grow. <br />
* Plants give off Carbon dioxide during the night.<br />
]]<br />
This is the most typical way tanks are cycled, usually because it is how it is recommended to the new aquarist if they are even told about the cycling process.<br />
<br />
This method is accomplished by simply putting fish into a new tank, their waste breaks down into ammonia and your cycle will start. This cycle can easily take 50–60 days while fishless can take much less. Frequent partial water changes will be needed (at least every 2–3 days) in order to keep the fish alive.<br />
*Not a recommended method as the animal suffers from ammonia burns and its immune and growth system will be compromised for many months afterwards. Delicate species can often die, if not during the cycle, often some time afterwards.<br />
<br />
=== Seeding Material Cycle Method===<br />
If you already have an established tank, you can use the bacteria growing there to greatly reduce the time needed for a cycle. The fastest way to accomplish this is to take dirty filter media (sponge, floss, etc.) from the existing tank and use it in the new tank. The bacteria on the dirty media will instantly cycle the new tank. There is no need to clean the dirty media-doing so may reduce the beneficial bacteria. The dirty media should be left in place for one month or more before cleaning. Other methods include running a second filter on an existing tank for a month, then moving the second filter to the new tank, but this takes much longer than putting dirty media in the new tank's filter.<br />
*Please note that it is always necessary to treat tap water with a dechlorinator such as Prime or Amquel, to deactivate chlorine/chloramines. Otherwise, these substances will kill the beneficial bacteria. Also note that filter media containing beneficial bacterial should never be cleaned in tap water, only in water drained from the aquarium during a water change, for the same reason.<br />
* Many fish stores or fish friends will trade used filter media for clean media. Just ask!<br />
<br />
=== Commercial Seeding Cycle Method ===<br />
There are a few products available which greatly speed up the denitrification process by providing the necessary [[bacteria]] in huge quantities in a bottle. All these product claim you can add fish from day one.<br />
<br />
*Stability - by [http://www.seachem.com/products/product_pages/Stability.html SeaChem] claim that their product allows fish to be added immediately as long as their product is added to the tank every 24 hours for the first 7 days. It also has a organic waste bacteria in it to clear up [[mulm]].<br />
<br />
*One and Only - by [http://www.drtimsaquatics.com/ DrTim's Aquatics™]. [[Dr. Timothy A. Hovanec]] - The inventor of BIO-Spira and SafeStart. Product instantly cycles your tank.<br />
<br />
*[[Safestart]] - [http://www.tetra-fish.co.uk/tetratropical/products/pageTEMPLATE.asp?productID=341 Tetra UK] Relatively new (Aug '06) and seemingly based on MarineLand's initial research?<br />
<br />
'''Cycle''' and other names - Various companies. This product is currently available in two types, the old and the new. The product has came under close scrutiny in 2005 due to claims by the other companies above. It would appear the old product may be based on wrong research done in the 1970s and misidentified the bacteria (Nitrobacter, etc.) causing nitrifying in the aquarium and does not actually reduce the cycle time of your tank significantly. The new version seems to work better.<br />
<br />
*See [[Bacteria bottles, do they work?]].<br />
*majority users report that Tetra SafeStart is the only working live bacteria product currently available. All other products do not work. <br />
<br />
*There may be trace amounts of ammonia exposed to the animals. So only stock or feed very lightly and monitor levels closely.<br />
<br />
=== Hi-tech Cycle Method===<br />
Add one of the major three instantly cycling nitrifying bacteria bottles (see above) as per its instructions and dose <u>daily</u> for a week with a high quality water conditioner like [[Prime]] or [http://www.novalek.com/kordon/amquel+/index.htm Amquel+]. The water conditioner will convert all ammonia or nitrite into a harmless form (for 24 hours) that the bacteria can still consume. <br />
<br />
The bacteria in the bottle will instantly start to consume the ammonia or nitrite and begin to grow in population to match the tank's production of ammonia or nitrite. So in effect any leftover ammonia/nitrite caused by overstocking or overfeeding is rendered harmless. <br />
<br />
*This method is highly recommended by the Aquarium Wiki Encyclopaedia as it rapidly renders the tank fully cycled within a few days regardless of the overstocking or overfeeding mistakes made by beginners. It is extremely unlikely to cause any harm to any aquatic pet.<br />
<br />
==Tip==<br />
When using Ammonia or feeding an animal during the hi-tech process, it is important that the level of Ammonia is kept below 1-1.5 as this will suppress the Cycle progress to completion. Keep ammonia levels under tight control by ensuring it never gets too high or in the case of using the Hi-Tech method, simply don't feed for a couple of days.<br />
<br />
==Links==<br />
*See also [[Beginning_Fishkeeping#5._Beginning_the_cycle_process|Beginning Fishkeeping - beginning the cycle process]]<br />
<br />
=== Handy External Links ===<br />
*[http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=113861 Fish Forums.net Guide to Fishless Cycling]<br />
*[http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=175355 Fish Forums.net Guide to Cycling with Fish]<br />
*[http://forum.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk/showthread.php?t=5322 Practical Fishkeeping Forums Diary of a Fishless Cycle]<br />
*[http://petskeepersguide.com/fishless-cycle-nitrogen-cycle/ PetsKeepersGuide.com Guide to Fishless Cycling with pure ammonia]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Glossary|N]]<br />
[[Category:Articles|N]]<br />
<br />
==References==<br />
{{reflist}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:How to Start Your Cycle]]</div>Quatermasshttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Chiclid&diff=75370Chiclid2013-02-28T21:47:55Z<p>Quatermass: Redirected page to Cichlid</p>
<hr />
<div>#REDIRECT [[Cichlid]]</div>Quatermasshttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Chiclids&diff=75369Chiclids2013-02-28T21:47:29Z<p>Quatermass: Redirected page to Cichlid</p>
<hr />
<div>#REDIRECT [[Cichlid]]</div>Quatermasshttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Thiaminase&diff=72754Thiaminase2012-09-14T22:16:30Z<p>Quatermass: /* Links */</p>
<hr />
<div>== What is Thiaminase? ==<br />
'''Thiaminase''' is an enzyme that breaks down [[thiamine]] into two molecular parts.<br />
<br />
Thiamine or thiamin, also known as [[vitamin B1]], is one of the B [[:category:vitamins]]. It is a colourless compound and is soluble in water. <br />
<br />
All B vitamins help the animal to convert carbohydrates into glucose (sugar), which is "burned" to produce energy.<br />
Thiaminase will reduce this process.<br />
<br />
If an animal eats raw animal flesh containing Thiaminase over a period of time of several months then thiaminase will break down the vitamin B1, an essential element of life and render it inactive. Therefore over time the health of your animal will suffer.<br />
<br />
But thankfully thiaminase does not stay in the body long however and simply feeding the animal different foods which contain vitamin B1 is all that is required. Alternatively cook the raw flesh first as thiaminase decomposes if heated.<br />
<br />
==Animal flesh containing Thiaminase==<br />
(This is not an exhaustive list. But see link below.)<br />
*[[Goldfish]]<br />
*Fathead minnows ([[Rosy Red]]s)<br />
*[[Carp]] family – ''Cyprinus carpio'', etc.<br />
*Bullhead catfish – ''Ameiurus m. melas''<br />
*Buffalofish – ''Ictiobus cyprinellus''<br />
*White Bass – ''Morone chrysops''<br />
*[[Tuna steak|Tuna fish]]<br />
*Mullet<br />
*Herring<br />
*Mackerel<br />
*Whitefish<br />
*Shellfish -Mussels<br />
*Bacteria producing Thiaminase have been found in Guppies - ''Poecilia reticulata''.<br />
<br />
*However small amounts of these foods are safe if only fed occasionally, say once a week, and as part of a varied diet.<br />
<br />
==Animal flesh NOT containing Thiaminase==<br />
(This is not an exhaustive list. But see link below.)<br />
*Cod – ''Gadus morhua''<br />
*Haddock - ''Gadus aeglefinus''<br />
*Eel – ''Anguilla rostrata''<br />
*Eel - ''Anguilla anguilla''<br />
*Pike – ''Esox lucius''<br />
*Salmon – ''Salmo salar''<br />
*Brown Trout – ''Salmo trutta fario''<br />
*Lake Trout – ''Salvelinus namaycush''<br />
*Rainbow Trout – ''Oncorhynchus mykiss''<br />
*Plaice - ''Pleuronectes platessa''<br />
*Sprat - ''Sprattus sprattus''<br />
*[[Tilapia fillets|Tilapia]]<br />
*[[Salmonidae]] (trout, salmon, etc.)<br />
*Perch - ''Perca fluviatilis''<br />
*Bass - ''Morone labrax''<br />
*Hake - ''Merluccius merluccius''<br />
*Halibut - ''Hippoglossus hippoglossus''<br />
*Sole - ''Solea solea''<br />
*Plaice - ''Pleuronectes platessa''<br />
*Sprat - ''Sprattus sprattus''<br />
*Skate - ''Raja spp.''<br />
<br />
==Vitamin B Deficiency Symptoms==<br />
*Constipation<br />
*Appetite loss<br />
*Weight loss<br />
*Heart enlargement<br />
*Lethargy<br />
<br />
*See [[w:Beriberi|Beriberi]]<br />
<br />
== Links ==<br />
*[[w:Thiaminase|Wikipedia]] - Thiaminase<br />
*[[w:Thiamine|Wikipedia]] - Thiamine<br />
*[http://www.austinsturtlepage.com/Articles/Thiaminase.htm Thiaminase in Turtles diet]<br />
*[http://books.nap.edu/openbook.php?isbn=030903325X&page=64#page_top List of fish not/containing Thiaminase]<br />
*[http://web.archive.org/web/20070905134537/http://wildlife1.wildlifeinformation.org/S/00Chem/vitamins/thiaminase.htm Thiaminase notes] - Fish reported to contain/not contain Thiaminase (archived link)<br />
*[http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_6/volume_6_1/thiaminase.htm More on Thiaminase]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]<br />
[[Category:Freshwater Food]]</div>Quatermasshttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Beginning_Fishkeeping&diff=72176Beginning Fishkeeping2012-07-25T20:56:03Z<p>Quatermass: /* Monitoring the nitrogen cycle */ spelling errors corrected</p>
<hr />
<div>== Beginner FAQ: Introduction ==<br />
<br />
Welcome to this beginners introduction. You are probably one of these types of people.<br />
<br />
#You're interested in setting up an aquarium and want to do it right.<br />
#You've just set up a tank and are interested in knowing more on this fascinating subject.<br />
#You have or will be buying a tank for your son or daughter to keep.<br />
#You're wondering why your aquatic animals keep dying on you?<br />
<br />
Keeping fish or any of the other aquatic animals that are available to you has never been so easy compared with even a few years ago. This is a massive hobby and has been going on for hundreds of years. It may surprise you to know that today more people keep fish as pets than dogs or cats.<br />
So welcome to the hobby!<br />
<br />
The goal of this article is to teach you the basics. Occasionally this will mean learning a little science. But it's been kept to just the basics. Honest!<br />
<br />
*One point, just to be clear, while this article may talk about fish, this being the most popular animal to keep in an aquarium, it isn't the only choice open to you. Some keep frogs, shrimp, turtles or even snails in their tank. So this article equally applies to keeping all of the above.<br />
<br />
A successful aquarium is a tank containing healthy animals, perhaps with some plants, that thrive for many years and perhaps even give you that extra pleasure of producing babies!<br />
<br />
Sure there are a couple of potential pitfalls to look out for and we hope to outline them as we go along so you can neatly sidestep them.<br />
<br />
The guidelines you'll find here are based on proven science and on the many years of experience of aquarists across the globe.<br />
<br />
You will no doubt have different ideas on how to progress once you've learned the basics. But that the beauty of this hobby, everyone's tank is unique.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Steps to a successful aquarium==<br />
<br />
===1. Find where all your local aquarium shops are and visit them===<br />
You'll be surprised at how many there may be near you. Best to look in the local telephone directory or ask at the local pet shop. <br />
<br />
As you visit them, take a pen and paper and note down the names of the animals you like. The shopkeeper is used to customers asking questions so fire away, but don't take every word as gospel, some employees are more educated in fishkeeping than others!<br />
<br />
Garden centres are also good places to find aquatic retailers, often hidden away in a back corner. Often you'll find the centre has an aquarium section as people like to keep [[Goldfish]] and [[Koi]] fish in their garden pond.<br />
<br />
*Pitfall: Just be wary that they may not have your best interests at heart. There are bad shops and good shops in all manner of businesses and the aquarium hobby is no different. The good shops look clean, win awards and proudly display these. So take a note of those posters! Some will be members of the [[OATA]] (in the UK) which means they've agreed to follow guidelines on looking after the animals in their shop and provide customers with good advice.<br />
<br />
*Pitfall: You'll be very tempted to buy items like the tank and fish on the same day (especially if you're a parent with a eager child in tow). But think of it as a exploration trip rather than a buying trip. Buying a tank and a fish on the same day for a beginner is usually a fatal disaster for the animal and a waste of your time and money. If you're worried about this, don't take your wallet to avoid temptation! Many good aquatic stores refuse to sell fish and tanks at the same time, this is for your benefit!<br />
<br />
===2. Examine your house===<br />
You'll need to find a place to put a tank. You're advised to put a tank where you can see it comfortably. Sounds obvious we know. But if a problem happens then you're not going to see it for hours if it's in 'the other room'. Best to put it against a wall so it can't easily be knocked over. Most aquariums need one or more mains electrical items to be used in it. So keep in mind that access to a wall socket is required.<br />
<br />
*Pitfalls:You don't want to put one on a shaky table. A full aquarium can [[Weight of Water|weigh a surprising large amount]] and putting it on a dodgy table is an ugly accident waiting to happen.<br />
<br />
Similarly don't put an aquarium near a busy door. This will stress the animal and a stressed animal is an ill animal.<br />
Don't put a tank against a sun drenched wall. Too much sun shining on the tank causes [[algae]] to grow in the tank which can soon look ugly (the fish don't mind it though) and the sun can easily heat up the water to killing levels on hot days.<br />
Lastly, think about you cleaning the tank and replacing the water from time to time. If the tank is too far from the bathroom or kitchen then you'll be giving yourself extra work carrying equipment and water around the house.<br />
<br />
===3. Decide what type of tank you want===<br />
Difficult one this. There are currently dozens of different tanks on the market. They are all manner of sizes, colours and shapes. Some are gimmicks sold by manufacturers to make a 'buck' and are unsuitable for holding a fish for any length of time.<br />
So what makes for a good tank? Usually the cheapest ones surprisingly. A long, low, rectangle shaped tank is still the best shape. It's sturdy and doesn't cost much to make.<br />
<br />
There are two basic types: Those made out of glass or those made out of plastic ([[Acrylic]]).<br />
Each have their advantages and disadvantages but glass is generally better in the long run as it's easier to keep clean and gives the best view of the fish.<br />
<br />
You'll want one with a hood. This will house the lamp so you can view the fish at its best and will keep smells and the fish in and reduce water evaporation.<br />
<br />
A good tank will have a large surface area. That is the amount of water exposed to the air relative to the volume. <br />
It may surprise you to know that it's not just the amount of water a tanks holds that determines the number of fish it can house. Most important is the surface area. Fish need oxygen to breathe and they can only get this by the air diffusing slowly across the water line. So the larger this is, the more oxygen can get into the water to replace what the fish take out when they breathe.<br />
<br />
*This is why people with goldfish bowls should only half fill them as that maximises the surface area. Not that we recommend using such small bowls of course. Their lack of filtration and small volume usually ends in a sick or dead fish.<br />
<br />
A lot of tanks come with their own stands. This increases their cost but you do get peace of mind that the stand is able to support the weight of the full tank.<br />
<br />
Most stands are also cupboards and provide a useful place to store bits and pieces, including external canister filters.<br />
<br />
*See: [[common tank sizes]].<br />
<br />
===4. Setting up the tank===<br />
Buying a tank, setting it up and filling it with fish all in the same day, while possible, is a sure road to disaster if you don't know the tricks of the hobby. In fact, setting up and fully stocking your first tank can take close to a month! But we'll show you how to do it in a day.<br />
<br />
You'll need a few things for your tank<br />
<br />
#Tank liner. A sheet of foam that is placed under the tank to protect the furniture and to stop any piece of grit from pressing into the bottom glass plate.<br />
#A heater to keep the water warm (for tropical set ups only).<br />
#A [[filter]] to remove toxins given off by the fish and keep the water chemistry stable.<br />
#Water conditioner.<br />
#Thermometer.<br />
#Water chemistry test kit, liquid kits are more reliable (testing for [[ammonia]],[[nitrite]],[[nitrate]],[[KH]],[[pH]], [[GH]]).<br />
#Two clean plastic buckets - one for holding new water, one for the old.<br />
#[[Substrate]] of your choice, gravel or sand.<br />
#Other misc tank-safe decorations.<br />
#[[:Category:Plants (Freshwater)|Plants]]. If you've got plants you'll need some plant fertiliser.<br />
Fish (or any other aquatic animal) require a place to hide so you'll need to provide some objects like plants (real or plastic), rocks, bogwood, ornaments, etc. Avoid any décor with very small holes where a fish could get stuck. Once the animals feel at home, they'll come out more if they feel they have a retreat.<br />
<br />
Examine the tank carefully. Any cracks or bad workmanship need to be found at this stage. Lightly wipe the inside with a dry paper towel to remove any dust, etc. or use a vacuum cleaner. At no point use any kind of [[soap]] or detergent on the tank or equipment or ornaments. You may kill the animals if any slight trace remains. A rinse of the tank with warm water is a good way to get rid of any shop dirt.<br />
<br />
Take the gravel and rinse it in tap water to remove dust. You'll need enough to cover the entire bottom of the tank to a depth of {{cm|2.5}}, only go deeper if you have live plants. Add the ornaments and position these firmly down in the gravel.<br />
<br />
Now to the water.<br />
<br />
You need to make the water around room temperature {{C|22|27}} before you add it to the tank. Use water from the kitchen tap only, it needs to come straight off the mains. Water that has been stored in storage tanks for a long time can contain bacteria or other nasties (dissolved metals), this can include hot water. It is best to use a spare heater to warm up standing water than hot water from the hot tap.<br />
<br />
A good tip is to place a small china saucer in the bottom of the tank so that any water poured in will hit this first and stops the gravel from being displaced.<br />
<br />
Pour in enough to cover the gravel to a depth of an inch.<br />
<br />
Take your water conditioner and reading its instructions, pour in enough to suit the total volume of your tank.<br />
<br />
Now add your plants (alive or plastic!).<br />
<br />
Once you're happy with this, fit your heater at an angle to the side of the aquarium adjust it so it's not touching the gravel, if it is a submersible one, or clamp it to the rear edge of the tank if it not. Add your box filter and arrange the cables.<br />
<br />
Fill the tank to the required level and put the lid on it and turn on its lights.<br />
<br />
Switch on the filter and the heater, and adjust it so it just barely comes "on" to start with.<br />
<br />
You'll notice millions of tiny bubbles appear inside on surfaces, this soon clears after a few hours. This is normal.<br />
<br />
Leave the tank to settle overnight, or at least for a few hours, as you should really check there are no leaks.<br />
<br />
===5. Beginning the cycle process===<br />
Now comes a bit of science.<br />
<br />
If you place aquatic animals into water then they will make mess in the water. This waste product is [[ammonia]], a deadly, foul smelling, very toxic form of [[nitrogen]] liquid. In the wild it is diluted in the river or pond. But in your small tank it isn't and so it rapidly builds up in a few days to levels that will kill your pet.<br />
<br />
Fortunately there are ways to get rid of it.<br />
<br />
You can add a [[filter]]. The pump constantly moves the aquarium water through the sponge. On the sponge will grow [[bacteria]], a kind of brown slimy mess, which is naturally present all around us in nature but grows best, very conveniently for us, in water when fed a food source like ammonia.<br />
<br />
The bacteria are initially very low in number and so can't do much to begin with but as it eats the ammonia, the ammonia level will drop. Eventually it will grow to such a size that it is able to consume all the ammonia your animals excrete. ''This process takes a week or two, however, and longer in marine systems.''<br />
<br />
The bacteria takes in the [[ammonia]]. But like all life, they too excrete waste. This waste is a chemical called [[nitrite]], another form of nitrogen. This waste is a little less toxic than ammonia (about 6x times) but still deadly if it was to get to a high level.<br />
<br />
Lucky for us again, another species of naturally occurring bacteria is always present around us and this 2nd bacteria eats [[nitrite]] and excretes [[nitrate]] waste. Once more it take time for this second type of bacteria to grow to such an amount that it can consume all the nitrite being produced. This takes around another week or two (longer for marine again) <u>after</u> the first lot of bacteria starts making nitrite.<br />
<br />
Nitrate is far, far less toxic than the other two chemicals (over 30,000x less toxic than ammonia) and only builds up slowly so we can get rid of this by performing partial water changes every week or two or adding lots of plants as they can eat nitrate.<br />
<br />
This whole process, which every tank has to go through, is called 'Cycling' or 'Tank Cycling'. When the ammonia and nitrite levels are at zero then your tank is said to be 'cycled' and safe for your pets to live in.<br />
<br />
Here is a graph showing the progress over time of the levels of these nasty waste chemicals.<br />
<br />
[[Image:Cycling graph.png|500px]]<br />
<br />
*PITFALL: To make the bacteria grow you need something in the water producing ammonia. <U>No animals in the water = no ammonia and no cycle!</U> But if you put fish in the new tank then you would kill it with its own waste. So what aquarists did for years was add one or two small fish which they knew could withstand a level of ammonia and fed them lightly. This produced the ammonia but is now considered unethical in some countries as better methods exist today which does not harm life. Some people add fish food which slowly decays over the weeks but again this is messy, slow and unreliable.<br />
<br />
Other methods consist:<br />
<br />
1. Constantly changing the water so as to dilute the [[ammonia]] or [[nitrite]]. But this delays the cycle process as the ammonia eating bacteria is denied food so can't grow as fast.<br />
<br />
2. Adding a handful or two of gravel from an established aquarium. There will be a small amount of the bacteria on them and this helps seed the new aquarium. But it doesn't speed up the cycle time by more than a week or two.<br />
<br />
3. Using a filter with a sponge, you find someone with an existing cycled aquarium and smear its filter bacteria onto your new sponge and put the treated sponge into your own filter. This needs to be done quickly as the bacteria dies within an hour or two out of oxygenated water. This hastes the cycle process but not more than a week or two.<br />
<br />
4. You treat the aquarium with a ammonia and nitrite neutralising chemical ([[Prime]] by Seachem or [[Amquel+]] by Kordon is often used) that de-toxics them without removing. You need to do this daily and not over (or under) dose the tank. You continue the treatment until the levels of ammonia and nitrite reach zero. This takes up to 30–40 days.<br />
<br />
5. You add a small level of pure ammonia every day for up to 40 days and monitor the levels of ammonia with a test kit. When the ammonia starts to decrease and nitrite appears you know you're getting there. When ammonia and nitrite are at zero and nitrate appears the tank is cycled and ready for you to add fish. This takes at least a month and is one of better fishless methods to use.<br />
<br />
===The AquariumWiki way===<br />
Today there is a better way - The 'hi-tech' cycling method. You buy [[Bacteria#Commercial_Bacteria|bacteria in a bottle]] which when used as instructed will allow you to add your fish to the tank within 24 hours or less of setting up the tank! No more waiting for a month or more.<br />
By also adding a small dosage of [[Prime]] or [[Amquel plus|Amquel+]] each day for the first 7 days, you also ensure any uneaten ammonia or [[nitrite]] will not harm your fish in anyway. The result is a fully cycled tank <u>within a week</u> and healthy fish every time! <br />
<br />
*PITFALL: There are several bacteria seeding products which use the wrong species of bacteria and do not allow the immediate addition of fish. These are easy to spot, they don't claim you can add fish right away. They do reduce the cycle process by a week or two at best but not dramatically. See our article [[Bacteria bottles, do they work?]]<br />
<font color=white>keywords: hitech method, hi-tech method</font><br />
<br />
==Stocking the cycled tank==<br />
Once the tank is fully cycled you can add livestock. But you must remember to only add a few animals per week as the level of nitrifying bacteria will have only grown to the limit of the amount of [[ammonia]] being produced. When you add further animals, then there will be free toxic ammonia in the water for the first few days until the bacteria grows to match the new level. <br />
So feed sparingly, healthy animals (not the very young) can take going slightly hungry for a week with no side effects. Alternatively continue to add a [[water conditioner]] like [[Prime]] or [[Amquel plus|Amquel+]] daily until the ammonia is gone.<br />
<br />
==Monitoring the nitrogen cycle==<br />
You can measure the levels of the three toxins (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate) any day by using [[test strips]], or more accurate [[liquid test kits]]. Tests strips are small paper strips that are dipped into the water for 5 seconds and can indicate when the cycle has completed. <br />
<br />
The liquid-based test kits are more accurate, but more time consuming. For this reason test strips can be very handy for the early days when testing is being done every day. So use them daily for the first 30 days so you can monitor the progress of your tank. Keeping a record of the indicated values is a good idea for identifying your place in the cycle.<br />
<br />
A completed cycle is indicated when ammonia and nitrite read zero and you have some nitrate. <br />
<br />
<br />
*See [[Beginning Fishkeeping-Choosing your first Fish]] on the subject of selecting fish.<br />
<br />
Also this article assumes your water is reasonably 'hard'. If you know your water is very soft then you'll need to take special precautions to ensure your water is a little bit harder. Add a small handful of coral sand per {{gal|5}} or add a teaspoon of plain bicarbonate of soda per {{gal|5}} to get the KH value above 4dKH (~70 ppm). You can purchase a KH test kit at your local aquarium shop. Don't dump plain bicarb into a populated tank - dissolve it is some tank water and then gradually add it, at later stages fully dissolve in the new water being added at water changes.<br />
<br />
*This is to prevent the [[pH]] from dropping too low (becoming highly acidic) as biological waste decays.<br />
<br />
[[Category:Beginning Fishkeeping]]<br />
[[Category:Articles]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Handy External Links ===<br />
*[http://petskeepersguide.com/fishless-cycle-nitrogen-cycle/ Prepare a new fish tank for aquarium nitrogen cycle]<br />
*[http://petskeepersguide.com/the-location-to-set-up-a-home-aquarium/ The location to set up a home aquarium]</div>Quatermasshttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Pea_Puffer&diff=72053Pea Puffer2012-07-09T16:49:07Z<p>Quatermass: </p>
<hr />
<div>#REDIRECT [[Carinotetraodon travancoricus]]<br />
<br />
{{Categories<br />
|Category= Fish - Common names (Freshwater), Puffer Fish - Common names<br />
}}</div>Quatermasshttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Pygmy_Puffer&diff=72052Pygmy Puffer2012-07-09T16:48:03Z<p>Quatermass: </p>
<hr />
<div>#REDIRECT [[Carinotetraodon travancoricus]]<br />
<br />
{{Categories<br />
|Category= Fish - Common names (Freshwater), Puffer Fish - Common names<br />
}}</div>Quatermasshttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Carinotetraodon_travancoricus&diff=72050Carinotetraodon travancoricus2012-07-09T16:42:57Z<p>Quatermass: updated</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Fish Data<br />
|stub=No<br />
|name=Dwarf Puffer<br />
|extra_common_names=Dwarf Indian Puffer, Dwarf Puffer, Pygmy Puffer, Bumblebee Puffer, Pea Puffer, Blue Eyed Puffer, Malabar Puffer, Indian Malabar Puffer, Malabar Pufferfish<br />
|species=Carinotetraodon travancoricus<br />
|extra_scientific_names=Tetraodon travancoricus, Monotreta travancoricus, Monotetrus trauancoricus<br />
|image=Carinotetraodon travancoricus2.jpg<br />
|caption=Dwarf Puffer<br />
|availability=U<br />
|habitat=asia<br />
|family=Tetraodontidae<br />
|captive_bred=No<br />
|difficulty=M<br />
|min_size=1<br />
|max_size=1.5<br />
|size_units=in<br />
|stocking_ratio_male=1<br />
|stocking_ratio_female=2<br />
|diet=C<br />
|food_flake=No<br />
|food_pellet=Yes<br />
|food_live=Yes<br />
|food_other=Yes<br />
|min_life_span=5<br />
|max_life_span=10<br />
|min_sg=1<br />
|max_sg=1<br />
|min_tank_size=5<br />
|min_tank_size_unit=gal<br />
|min_ph=7.0<br />
|max_ph=8.5<br />
|min_temperature=24<br />
|max_temperature=26<br />
|temperature_units=C<br />
|min_water_hardness=5<br />
|max_water_hardness=10<br />
}}<br />
{{Basic fish page<br />
|origin=:One of the fully freshwater puffers, Dwarf puffers originate from slow moving streams of India in the Malabar region, hence one of the common names.<br />
|sexing=:Sexing of juveniles is impossible because these fish "choose" their sex as they mature. Once one puffer begins male he excretes hormones to prevent the other puffers from becoming male. However, if two fish start to mature into males at the same time one will become the dominant male.<br />
<br />
:Males are smaller with a dark line running down the length of their white belly (not along their sides like some articles say), which is an indication of the ventral crest which erects as part of the courtship behaviour of the fish. The males may also be darker, more subtlety coloured.<br />
<br />
:There is also a dorsal crest, but it lacks special colouration when not erected. Both crests are displayed during courtship while the male circles the female. They also will have more yellow colouration. Males will also develop “wrinkles” behind their eyes, that the females do not have.<br />
<br />
:Females are more rounded, tend to be a bit larger than males, and may or may not show more smallish spots between their larger dark markings.<br />
<br />
==Breeding==<br />
:Breeding is preceded by short-term pair formation with display by the male of his dorsal and ventral crests while he circles a gravid (egg-bearing) female. This may be preceded by spawn-site selection by the male, but this may not be obvious to the keeper as these sites are normally in plant thickets (dense growth of stem plants, especially small-leafed ones, or clumps of [[Java Moss]]).<br />
<br />
:Some nipping and biting by the male may occur as part of the attention-getting display. If the female responds, she will follow the male and finally precede the male into his indicated spawning site, deposit eggs and swim away. The male will follow and fertilize the eggs. This may be repeated several times before the female leaves the area (there should be multiple heavily planted areas available to offer her refuge from overly persistent males).<br />
<br />
:The male will guard and fan the eggs until hatching. Females take no further interest or care in the spawn. For such a small puffer, the fry are quite large at hatch and most will take and survive well on newly hatched brine shrimp. Many other puffer fry are much too small for newly hatched [[brine shrimp]]. These fish are commercially bred in the USA, and fairly frequently bred and raised by hobbyists.<br />
|tank_compatibility=:Like all puffers, Dwarf Puffers should not be considered community fish and should generally be kept in a single species set-up. They can be very aggressive and territorial, often nip fins, and there are reports of them killing fish larger then themselves.<br />
<br />
:There are however a few other fish species that have been found to be respectable tank mates, please remember that even after living peacefully with tank mates for years, no fish is guaranteed safe forever. Tank mates that some have found success with are [[Otocinclus]], ''[[Acanthophtalmus kuhli kuhli|Kuhli Loaches]]'', and occasionally [[shrimp]].<br />
<br />
:For the experienced fishkeeper, multiples of this species can be kept together if the tank is very well planted and big enough so they are not constantly in sight of each other and well fed. This species develops a hierarchy when in a group, and one puffer (usually a male) will become the dominant one.<br />
|diet=:Like some puffers, dwarf puffers are snail eaters. [[MTS|Malaysian Trumpet Snails]] should not be feed, as their shells are too hard, and may break the Dwarf Puffers beak. Small [[Ramshorn]] snails are ideal as an easily cultured and highly nutritious food. Dwarf puffers seem unique in this family in that their fused dental plates are very thin (rather like an infant or small child's fingernails) and they do not seem to require the high-crunch factor in their diet that the other hunter-predators in this genus (Carinotetraodon) and their ilk in the Tetraodon genus require. They are biters and slurpers - meaning that they tend to bite into and pull the snails from their shells (as many Loaches do) rather than crushing the shell. Very small and thin shelled snails, such as the small common Ramshorns may be crushed.<br />
<br />
:Many have also had success with the addition of frozen, and/or live food to their diet, including [[blackworms]], mosquito larva, [[tubifex]] worms, [[bloodworm]], [[white worm]], [[water fleas]], [[brine shrimp]] all are excellent additions to their diet.<br />
<br />
:Do note that there is no real inconsistency in suggesting shrimp as possible tanks mates, and also shrimp as potential food items. There is much individual personality and many levels of aggression, even within a single genus and species in the puffer family. One individual or group may not recognize shrimp as prey and food. Another individual or group will, without hesitation, capture, dismember, and consume any shrimp dropped into their tank. Accurate individual predictions are impossible, as are long-term bets. Aggression levels do increase at sexual maturity, so the onset of visible secondary sex differences may also mark a change in the tolerance of tank mates or the selection of prey.<br />
<br />
:Where live worms are fed, the use of perforated cone feeders is strongly suggested. Dwarf puffers seem to feel it necessary to carefully examine each morsel for suitability. If blackworms are dropped into the tank as group, many to most will escape into the gravel and be uneaten. The cone allows them to work their way out only relatively slowly, giving the fish time to decide that this is food and that it should be taken. Most DPs love blackworms, once they recognize them as food, but they do continue examining each worm individually.<br />
|feeding_regime=:Feed once or twice a day, no more than can be consumed in a few minutes.<br />
<br />
:Puffers, as with many captive fish, have little or no built-in restrictions on quantity of food consumed. In the wild they must seek and search for prey. In captivity food is provided, and more often than not it is provided in excess. Puffers, with their peculiar structure, make it simple to see how much food they have consumed as their gut is not surround by ribs and bands of swimming muscles as in most fish. The appearance of a lightly rounded belly is plenty of food. A fat belly is too much. Overfeeding most captive fish not only increases tank upkeep, over time it shortens the fish's life by liver and or kidney problems and other issues from obesity. The old adage about a lean horse for a long race has application also in the fish hobby.<br />
|environment_specifics=:Fairly easy for an experienced aquarist. Sensitive to water quality issues, regular water changes are a must. Only keep in a fully cycled tank, [[ammonia]] and [[nitrite]] should be 0. Messy eaters, over filtration is highly recommended.<br />
<br />
:Provide with hiding places/caves made from [[bogwood|bogwood/driftwood]] and unglazed ceramic pots. Dwarf puffers should only be housed in a well-planted tank, with many line of sight breaks provided.<br />
|behaviour=:When this fish is first introduced into your tank you will notice it travels around with its tail curved. This is normal and is a sign of defence. As the puffer ages and becomes used to its environment then this tail curling will disappear other than when sleeping or napping, or when examining an object while keeping it in clear sight directly in front of the fish.<br />
<br />
:Known to be fearless and aggressive, they can and will take on fish larger than themselves. Very intelligent, dwarf puffers have been known to recognize their owners, and beg for food. Dwarf puffers will provide hours of entertainment to their owner as they relentlessly hunt for snails. Keeping a large group of 5-6 puffers can help defuse aggression between individuals.<br />
}}<br />
{{Categories<br />
|Category=Fish, Fish (Freshwater), Oddballs, Puffer Fish (Freshwater)<br />
}}<br />
==Pictures==<br />
Pictures of the same dwarf puffer (possible female)<br><br />
<gallery><br />
Image:Carinotetraodon travancoricus1.jpg|Young dp alongside a Clown pleco<br />
Image:Carinotetraodon travancoricus2.jpg|Closeup of young {{in|0.5}} dp<br />
Image:Carinotetraodon travancoricus3.jpg|Young dp a week later<br />
Image:Carinotetraodon travancoricus4.jpg|Young dp front view<br />
Image:Carinotetraodon travancoricus5.jpg|Closeup of back markings<br />
Image:Carinotetraodon travancoricus6.jpg|Young dp alongside two [[otocinclus]]<br />
Image:Puffers1.jpg|Two puffers<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Videos ==<br />
{|<br />
|<youtube>6o1fw9jtRNc</youtube><br />
|<youtube>1olf_IfzMcI</youtube><br />
|}<br />
<br />
== External links ==<br />
*{{FishBase |id=25293}}<br />
*[http://www.dwarfpuffers.com Dwarf Puffers.Com]<br />
*[http://www.thepufferforum.com The Puffer Forum]<br />
*[http://www.pufferlist.com/ The Puffer List]<br />
*[http://badmanstropicalfish.com/profiles/profile93.html Badman’s Tropical Fish]<br />
*[http://www.thetropicaltank.co.uk/Fishindx/puf-trav.htm The Tropical Tank]<br />
*[http://web.archive.org/web/20080113222706/http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/breeding/McKane_Dwarf_Puffers.html 10 Things to Know About Puffers: Dwarf Puffers]</div>Quatermasshttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Hymenochirus_boettgeri&diff=71925Hymenochirus boettgeri2012-06-20T20:19:07Z<p>Quatermass: /* Behaviour */ added details of their song</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Fish Data <br />
|name = Dwarf African Frog<br />
|image = DAF3.jpg<br />
|caption = White Female Dwarf African Frog<br />
|species = Hymenochirus boettgeri<br />
|difficulty = E<br />
|min_tank_size = 5<br />
|min_tank_size_unit = gal<br />
|max_size = 6<br />
|min_size = 5<br />
|size_units = cm<br />
|min_ph = 6.8<br />
|max_ph = 7.8<br />
|min_temperature = 22<br />
|max_temperature = 30<br />
|temperature_units = C<br />
|min_water_hardness = 5<br />
|max_water_hardness = 12<br />
|stocking_ratio_female = 1<br />
|stocking_ratio_male = 1<br />
|availability = C<br />
|diet = C<br />
|food_pellet = 0<br />
|food_flake = 0<br />
|food_live = Yes<br />
|food_other = Yes<br />
|min_life_span = 3<br />
|max_life_span = 10<br />
|type=a<br />
}}<br />
{{Distinguish Dangerous|African Clawed Frog}}<br />
==Alternative names==<br />
:{{cn|African Dwarf Frog}} ({{cn|ADF}}), {{cn|Dwarf African Frog}} ({{cn|DAF}}), {{cn|Dwarf Clawed Frog}}, {{cn|Zaire Dwarf Clawed Frog}}, {{cn|Eastern Dwarf Clawed Frog}}, {{cn|Gaboon Dwarf Clawed Frog}}, {{cn|Western Dwarf Clawed Frog}}, {{cn|Marble Frog}}<br />
=== Synonyms ===<br />
:{{sn|Hymenochirus curtipes}}<br />
<br />
== History ==<br />
:Family : [[w:Pipidae|Pipidae]]<br />
:Dwarf African Frogs were discovered by Tornier in 1896 and were first classed as ''Xenopus boettgeri''.<br />
:This was later reclassified into its own Genus ''Hymenochirus''.<br />
<br />
:However, it wasn't until 1996 that it was given a common name of Dwarf Clawed Frogs by Norman Frank and Erica Ramus, in the publication ''A Complete guide to Scientific and Common Names of Reptiles and Amphibians of the World''.<br />
<br />
=== Synonyms ===<br />
*''Xenopus boettgeri'' - Tornier, 1896<br />
*''Hymenochirus feae'' - Boulenger, 1906<br />
*''Hymenochirus boettgeri feae'' - Perret and Mertens, 1957<br />
*''Hymenochirus boettgeri'' - Tornier, 1896<br />
*''Hymenochirus boettgeri boettgeri'' - Perret and Mertens, 1957<br />
*''Hymenochirus boettgeri camerunensis'' - Perret and Mertens, 1957<br />
*''Hymenochirus boulengeri'' - Witte, 1930<br />
*''Hymenochirus curtipes'' - Noble, 1924<br />
<br />
:Of these species only ''Hymenochirus boettgeri'' and to a much lesser degree, ''Hymenochirus curtipes ''are found in the Aquarium shops around the world. But it is suspected that most are hybrids of the two.<br />
<br />
== Sexing ==<br />
:Male is smaller, develops a small red or white spot behind his armpits when sexually mature. When viewed from above they have a V shape ridge across the back from the anus across the rear legs (see picture below). The males also have a tiny to no visible 'tail' bud.<br />
<br />
:The females are far rounder in appearance and have a small tail bud.<br />
<br />
:The males also sing, while the females only sing rarely and usually as a response to the male.<br />
<br />
==Tank compatibility==<br />
:Will not bother any fish as long as it's bigger than itself. It will eat fish [[fry]]. It has been reported that DAF are compatible with larger shrimp such as [[Amano Shrimp]]. They are not compatible with [[:Category:Crayfish|crayfish]].<br />
<br />
:Some people keep DAFs with [[Betta splendens]]. This is difficult as Bettas are also [[carnivore]]s, so they compete for the same types of food. Often the Betta gets fat whilst the frog starves. Best to find a way to feed the frog without the Betta being able to eat it all. A word of warning, when DAFs are kept with Bettas there are stories of either the DAF having his eyes and toes nipped and even legs broken by a feisty Betta, and on the other hand, there are stories of DAF's grabbing a Betta's tail and hanging on causing stress and injury to the fish.<br />
<br />
== Diet ==<br />
:A [[carnivore]], these frogs will typically eat insects and small fish [[fry]] in the wild. In an aquarium the DAF can be fed on pieces of raw fish such as [[Foods::tuna steak]] (though only feed this once a week), [[Foods::tilapia fillets|tilapia]] or salmon. It is also common to feed the DAF prepared foods such as frozen [[Foods::Bloodworm]] (though only once or twice a week), [[Foods::Brine Shrimp]], small [[Earthworms]] or [[Foods::Whiteworm]], [[Foods::TetraPrima]], [[Foods::ReptoMin]], small cooked pieces of mussels or prawns and [[catfish pellets]].<br />
<br />
:Most pet stores don't seem to be aware of the correct food to provide for these animals. They do not eat fish [[flake]] food.<br />
<br />
*Do not feed these frogs any raw fish meat that contains [[Thiaminase]].<br />
<br />
==Feeding regime==<br />
:Feed once a day when young, feed once every two or three days when over one year old. Whilst adult DAFs should not be thin, don't let your frog get too fat!<br />
<br />
:DAFs have no teeth (and no tongue) so need food that is either small enough to eat whole or can be broken up by violent sideways jerking motions. Freezing meaty food before hand is an excellent method of breaking down the tough fibres so it easily breaks up.<br />
<br />
:[[Bloodworm]]s are often suggested to owners as a DAFs main food source. This is a very bad idea for a DAF as this food source is low in protein and lacks many essential amino acids it requires to live. Feed bloodworm sparingly. Variety is the key.<br />
<br />
:If they are kept with fish they will often either need to be target fed, or fed using a [[JBL_Snail_Trap_Review#Other_uses|DAF feeder]].<br />
<br />
== Environment Specifics ==<br />
:This is a fully aquatic frog and will stay underwater for hours; however, it still needs to periodically come up to the surface to breathe. The substrate must be too large or (preferably) too fine to be eaten by the frog while lunging for its food.<br />
<br />
:If gravel is eaten by the frog, it will remain in the intestinal tract, cause blockage, and shortly afterwards, death. Sand or river rocks of at least {{cm|0.5}} in diameter is recommended. The minimum tank size for one adult frog (over a year old) is {{gal|5}}. A young frog can probably get away with {{gal|3}}. Biological filtration perhaps isn't needed if the owner keeps up with regular weekly water changes. But it helps keep the levels of ammonia down if the owner neglects, overstocks or overfeeds.<br />
<br />
:If it happens to be a power filter with a intake pipe, cover it with fine mesh to prevent the trapping of the frogs' delicate legs causing it to drown. This is a common occurrence in larger tanks.<br />
<br />
:The water level must be dropped {{in|1|2}} from the top for two reasons; one, to allow for proper gas exchange and respiration of the frogs, and two, to prevent escape and therefore death. Otherwise ensure there are no escape holes for the frogs to explore. A DAF can easily jump {{in|3|4}} into the air from a solid base.<br />
<br />
:These frogs cannot be out of water for more than 10-15 minutes. If they somehow escape into the relatively desolate environment of an average home, their skin will dehydrate, and they will die.<br />
<br />
:These frogs can be easily kept in aquariums with a tall water column. A {{in|18-24}} tall tank is not a problem for them.<br />
<br />
== Origin ==<br />
:This animal inhabits forested equatorial Africa from Nigeria and Cameroon south through Gabon and east throughout the Congo River Basin.<br />
<googlemap lat="-1.318243056862001" lon="15.908203125" zoom="2" height=300 type="map"><br />
8.667918002363121,7.55859375,<br />
4.12728532324537,13.271484375,<br />
-0.615222552406841,12.216796875,<br />
-2.284550660236957,22.060546875,<br />
-1.318243056862001,15.908203125,<br />
5.659719, 12.260742, Cameroon<br />
</googlemap><br />
<br style="clear:both;"/><br />
<br />
== Behaviour ==<br />
:Peaceful animals which are known for their 'comical' behaviour.<br />
<br />
:The DAF, like all frogs, have to discard their outer layer of skin every few weeks as they grow. They accomplish this by twisting and turning violently, and often go on to eat the skin.<br />
<br />
:Young and juvenile DAFs tend to be more active near the water line and prefer floating plants to lie upon.<br />
<br />
:The DAF is very long sighted and as adults have eyes on opposing far sides of the skull. This means it has great difficulty in seeing anything close to it or directly in front of it, so it relies on its sense of smell and vibration to find its food. It can often be seen stabbing at food on the bottom, missing quite a few times!<br />
<br />
:It can take a DAF ten minutes to discover that there is food in the tank. So if a DAF is kept with fish, you have to allow for this by feeding the fish first in one place and then feeding the frog in another place. It can be all too easy for a inexperienced owner to starve their frogs if kept with bottom feeding fish.<br />
<br />
:The male frog makes a low long repeating chirping sound to attract a mate (The female makes a similar if shorter reply). This can be heard if you have the tank in a quiet room and you listen at night at least 1 to 2 feet away.<br />
:*See external link below for a MP3 sound file of the male.<br />
<br />
== Breeding ==<br />
:Most frogs require a trigger to get the female to produce eggs. The Dwarf African frog is no exception.<br />
<br />
:Gradually drain the tank water level down to around the {{cm|7}} level over a period of 2 to 4 weeks.<br />
<br />
:Then suddenly increase the water level back to normal using warm water so that the temperature of the water is increased to {{c|28|30}} and keep it there for 2 weeks. Ensure the frogs get enough high quality food (not just [[bloodworm]]). This should trigger the females frogs into generating eggs and will soon look noticeably fatter.<br />
<br />
:Once the female is ripe with eggs the male will grab her in a [[lumbar amplexus]] and begin the spawning dance. This consists of holding on to the female for many hours and if the female is receptive she will repeatedly swim and dive to and from the surface in a circular motion and release floating eggs near the surface and the male will release his sperm to fertilise them.<br />
<br />
:As many as 750 eggs may be released and these tend to scatter across the aquarium. The frogs may eat the eggs, so remove the adults. The eggs will hatch after 2-6 days and the 4mm tadpoles are carnivorous and will require high concentrations of [[infusoria]] and microscopic [[protozoans]] if they are not to starve.<br />
<br />
:After a few weeks the tadpoles will be large enough to eat [[whiteworm]], baby [[brine shrimp]], [[Cyclop-eez]], etc.<br />
<br />
:Six weeks after hatching, the tadpoles will metamorphose into small frogs about 14mm long.<ref>Breeding reference: [http://www.amphibian.co.uk/books.html Amphibians in Captivity by Marc Staniszewski] 1995. ISBN 0-7938-0133-8, pub. TFH Publications Inc.</ref><br />
<br />
== Identification ==<br />
:The DAF can be distinguished from a young African Clawed Frog by the fact that the DAF has webbed fingers. The [[ACF]] does not. Also there is no [[albino]] version of the DAF on sale currently.<br />
<br />
:Telling apart a ''H. boettgeri'' from a ''H. curtipes'' isn't easy as the two species can interbreed to create a hybrid. Some breeders believe that the DAF sold in the Trade is such a hybrid.<br />
<br />
:''H. curtipes'' has a shorter head with smaller eyes, its skin is covered with tiny bumps which are larger and more distinctive than the same bumps on a ''H. boettgeri''. It has shorter hind legs than ''H. boettgeri'' It may also be lighter in colour.<ref>Rabb, G. B. and Rabb, M. S. (1963). ''On the behavior and breeding biology of the African pipid frog Hymenochirus boettgeri.'' Zeitschrift für Tierpsychologie, 20(2), 215-241. 1963</ref><br />
<br />
:''H. curtipes'' also has tubercules (warts) on its upper hind legs which are the same size as on its back. Where as ''H. boettgeri'' has tubercules on its upper thighs which are larger than on its back.<ref>Frank Schafer - My Dwarf Clawed Frog. Aqualog Minis. ISBN 3-936027-30-7 page 5. pub.2003</ref><br />
<br />
*See image below.<br />
<br />
==Special Notes==<br />
:In America and Canada most large chain shops are selling these frogs infected with [[Chytrid Fungus]], a highly infectious and deadly fungus which kills within the first 3 months of ownership. This is believed to be due to the shops mixing the [[African Clawed Frog]] (which is a immune carrier) in with the dwarf frog and so passes on the fungus via the water. It is recommended that owners in these countries quarantine their new frogs for no less than 3 months before placement in their main tank. See our [[Chytrid Fungus]] article for more details.<br />
<br />
:Life Span - In the Yahoo [http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DwarfAfricanFrogs/ Dwarf African Frogs] group there are several members who claim their DAFs had lived for 10 years.<br />
<br />
==Pictures==<br />
<gallery><br />
Image:DAF1.jpg|Two young DAFs.<br />
Image:DAF2.jpg|A young DAF.<br />
Image:DAF4.jpg|2 DAFs in lumbar Amplexus. Male on Top.<br />
Image:DAF5.jpg|2 Corys and a female DAF hanging out.<br />
Image:DAF6.jpg|A young DAF showing its gullet pouch.<br />
Image:DAF7.jpg|Two DAFs, ''H. boettgeri'' and a ''H. curtipes'' on the right.<br />
Image:Froglet.jpg|A 7 week old froglet - ''H. boettgeri''.<br />
Image:Hymenochirus_boettgeri_moulting-4761.jpg|Dwarf frog in process of moulting.<br />
Image:DAF8.jpg|A young Dwarf African Clawed Frog. Note the black claws on their hind feet.<br />
Image:DAF9.jpg|A top view of male DAF showing the V-shape and lack of tail bud.<br />
Image:Hymenochirus_boettgeri_tadpoles_at_3_days.jpg|Three day old tadpoles.<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
*Picture of a wild [http://calphotos.berkeley.edu/cgi/img_query?query_src=aw_search_index&seq_num=183675&one=T Hymenochirus curtipes]<br />
<br />
==Video==<br />
{|<br />
|-<br />
|Young DAFs at feeding time||Two Adult DAFs (one 'white')<br />
|-<br />
|<youtube>apHT6SdUc0U</youtube>||<youtube>yl1iTVL3mvA</youtube><br />
|-<br />
|&nbsp;||&nbsp;<br />
|-<br />
|Very young DAFs||Adult male and female mating<br />
|-<br />
|<youtube>vo-R1WKlsD0</youtube>||<youtube>ylfN4GJZovk</youtube><br />
|-<br />
|&nbsp;||&nbsp;<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{|<br />
|-<br />
|Frog eating raw [[Tilapia]] fish flesh<br />
|Frog eating [[TetraPrima]] pellets<br />
|-<br />
|<youtube>u1Bsa_vsT1o</youtube><br />
|<youtube>x_-vr1wS0BE</youtube><br />
|-<br />
|&nbsp;||&nbsp;<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{|<br />
|-<br />
|Frog eating [[Bloodworm]]<br />
|Frog eye movement on feeding<br />
|-<br />
|<youtube>RgXttK0hGlc</youtube><br />
|<youtube>Bp7ume0YnV0</youtube><br />
|}<br />
<br />
== External links ==<br />
*[http://web.archive.org/web/20080731090923/http://www.pollywog.co.uk/health.html General Frog Health] (Archived Link)<br />
*[http://www.microgravity-systems.com/hymenochirus/englishversion/hydrops_eng.htm Treatment] for Dropsy, [[Balloon Disease]] (Endolymphatic hydrops) or [[Water oedema]]<br />
*[http://www.petco.com/caresheets/fish/Frog_AfricanDwarf.pdf PetCo Care Sheet (PDF)]<br />
*[http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DwarfAfricanFrogs/ Yahoo Discussion Group on DAFs]<br />
*[http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=3215122656393618480&pl=true Google Video of Female DAFs]<br />
*[http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-7756598675410719406&pl=true Two young DAFs on Google Video]<br />
*[http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=545825901095834692&pl=true Google Video of young DAFs]<br />
*[http://amphibiaweb.org/cgi-bin/amphib_query?query_src=aw_search_index&where-genus=Hymenochirus&where-species=boettgeri&rel-genus=equals&rel-species=equals Amphibiaweb on ''Hymenochirus boettgeri'']<br />
*[http://amphibiaweb.org/cgi-bin/amphib_query?query_src=aw_search_index&where-genus=Hymenochirus&where-species=curtipes&rel-genus=equals&rel-species=equals Amphibiaweb on ''Hymenochirus curtipes'']<br />
*[http://davidcecere.pipidae.org/Excerpt.htm An extract of 'On the behavior and breeding biology of the African pipid frog ''Hymenochirus boettgeri''']<br />
*[http://www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk/pfk/pages/show_article.php?article_id=661 PFK Article - Dwarf & Clawed Frogs]<br />
<br />
*[http://mytriops.com/frogs/Male_DAF_song.mp3 MP3 short song of the male DAF singing]<br />
<br />
*Aqualog Mini book - My Dwarf Clawed Frog by Frank Schafer, Burkard Migge. Publisher: Verl. A.C.S in 2003, ISBN 3936027307, 9783936027303 - [http://www.google.com/search?query=aqualog+%22My+Dwarf+Clawed+Frog%22&num=50&sa=Search Search for copies]<br />
<br />
=== Breeding Links ===<br />
*[http://www.flippersandfins.net/adfbreedingarticle.htm African Dwarf Frog Breeding]<br />
*[http://davidcecere.pipidae.org/ Dwarf Frog Central] - Breeding and tadpole identification.<br />
*[http://davidcecere.pipidae.org/infusoria.htm Making infusoria for your tadpoles]<br />
*[http://davidcecere.pipidae.org/Page2.htm#tads Raising tadpoles]<br />
<br />
== References ==<br />
{{reflist}}<br />
*[http://research.amnh.org/herpetology/amphibia/references.php?id=19716 Amphibian Species of the World and their species names]<br />
*[[w:Gabon|Gabon]]<br />
*[[w:Cameroon|Cameroon]]<br />
*[http://www.pipidae.net/species_literature_hymenochirus_map.php Species Literature]<br />
*[http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0964103230 Paperback - Complete Guide to Scientific and Common Names of Reptiles and Amphibians of the World]<br />
*[http://davidcecere.pipidae.org/discrepencies.htm Discrepancies in Observations of Hymenochirus boettgeri, Rabb vs. Sokol] by David D. Cecere.<br />
<br />
[[Category:Amphibians]]<br />
[[Category:Frogs]]</div>Quatermasshttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Talk:Misgurnus_anguillicaudatus&diff=71521Talk:Misgurnus anguillicaudatus2012-04-05T08:42:30Z<p>Quatermass: </p>
<hr />
<div>I thought that Golden loaches are supposed to be kept with Goldfish as both love coldwater environments. Petsmart even labels them in the "Goldfish community" rather than the tropical one. Can someone please explain?<br />
<br />
:Hi Cephas, these fish need a cold water environment with a decent level of water current. Some Goldfish, especially fancy ones, need a warmer room temperature of say {{C|20|25}} and low water current due to their lack of control in swimming.<br />
<br />
:If you only plan to put them in a large tank with plain short fin goldfish then they should be ok.<br />
:I personally wouldn't keep one goldfish/Loach in less than a 4 foot tank, they grow quite large within a year! --[[User:Quatermass|Quatermass]] 03:20, 4 April 2012 (CDT)<br />
<br />
::I have also heard of these Loaches having mad moments whilst in tanks with Goldfish, crashing headlong into the side of the Goldfish, that leaves the Goldfish with irreparable internal damage. I definitely would not recommend them housing with Goldfish, despite them doing well in cooler temperatures. Goldfish should be kept in species tanks. --[[User:Catxx|Cat]] 16:34, 4 April 2012 (CDT)<br />
<br />
::That's right, they're called Weather Loaches for a reason!<br />
::Stores only want to sell things, they don't really care about the 'detail'. No shop tells the customer the negative side of buying their stock. --[[User:Quatermass|Quatermass]] 03:42, 5 April 2012 (CDT)</div>Quatermasshttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Aquavitro_Alpha&diff=71516Aquavitro Alpha2012-03-28T21:21:01Z<p>Quatermass: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Aquavitro alpha 350ml.jpg|100px|right]]<br />
==What is it?==<br />
A high quality water conditioner made by Seachem under their [[aquavitro]] brand for use in reef or freshwater aquariums.<br />
<br />
==What does it do?==<br />
By adding it to your aquarium water you can instantly remove [[chlorine]], [[chloramine]] and renders any released [[ammonia]] non-toxic for 24 hours. It also detoxifies [[nitrite]] and [[nitrate]] so that they too have no ill effect on the aquatic animals in your tank.<br />
<br />
It also detoxifies any toxic [[heavy metals]] that may be present in your tap water.<br />
<br />
Seachem claims - "It converts ammonia into a safe, non-toxic form that is readily utilized by beneficial bacteria and reef inhabitants such as clams. alpha™ may be used during tank cycling to alleviate ammonia/nitrite toxicity. alpha™ detoxifies nitrite and nitrate, allowing the biofilter to more efficiently remove them. alpha™ also promotes the production and regeneration of the natural slime coat on fish. alpha™ is non-acidic and will not impact pH, nor will it over activate skimmers." <br />
<br />
Available in different sizes bottles, 5ml of this liquid per {{L|300}} can remove 0.8&nbsp;mg/L [[ammonia]], 1.2&nbsp;mg/L [[chloramine]], or 3.3&nbsp;mg/L [[chlorine]]. Or putting it another way, 1ml can detoxify a {{L|60}} tank of the above levels.<br />
<br />
*Seachem claims it is the highest concentrated water conditioner on the market.<ref>[http://www.aquavitro.com/Products/alpha.html "alpha™ is the most concentrated dechlorinator on the market"]</ref><br />
<br />
*Seachem claim it doesn't significantly reduce oxygen in the water unless, seriously overdosed or there is no nitrogen compounds to remove.<ref>[http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3278869&postcount=126 Over-dosing Prime reduces oxygen? - Official reply by Gmerice Lafayette-Research Manager of Seachem]</ref><br />
<br />
*Seachem claim that by using five times the normal dosage it will remove Nitrate.<ref>[http://www.seachem.com/support/forums/showthread.php?t=2808 Prime Dosage for Nitrate Removal]</ref><br />
<br />
<br />
==Use==<br />
Aquarists can use this daily in conjunction with a bacteria starter product like [[Stability]], [[BIO-Spira]] or [[Safestart]] to instantly make up a new aquarium safely within 24 hours and cause no harm to the animals with a typical cycling time of 5 days or less.<br />
<br />
==Special notes==<br />
alpha like all other water conditioners will cause most test kits to read a false high nitrogen level.<br />
For example if testing for ammonia, [[Salicylate]] or [[Nessler]] based kits determine the total ammonia by raising the pH of the test solution to 12 or greater. At this high pH all ammonia removal products will breakdown and re-release the ammonia, thus giving you a false ammonia reading. Same goes for nitrite or nitrate.<br />
<br />
*Seachem's [http://www.seachem.com/Products/Testing.html Multitest] Ammonia kit use a different method and therefore that kit reading is not affected by any water conditioner chemical. But their Nitrate/Nitrite multitest kit will be. <ref>Seachem Support - [http://www.seachem.com/support/forums/showthread.php?t=4055 Prime and Nitrite levels]</ref><br />
*Tip: Leave a sample of the water out in a cup for 24 hours and test it then. Any Prime in the sample will have gone by then.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Availability==<br />
This product is usually found in the better range of aquarium and pet shops in USA and Europe. It is available online.<br />
<br />
==Special note==<br />
Though this product is promoted for use in reef aquariums, it is suitable for use in freshwater aquariums as well. It is an enhanced and more concentrated version of [[Prime]].<br />
<br />
==References==<br />
<references/><br />
<br />
==Links==<br />
*[http://www.aquavitro.com/Products/alpha.html Alpha by aquavitro]<br />
*[http://www.aquavitro.com/Support/MSDS/FI-Alpha.doc.pdf MSDS data]<br />
*See also [[Water conditioners]] and [[Prime]]<br />
<br />
==Stockists==<br />
*[http://www.aquaessentials.co.uk/ UK - AQUAessentials]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]<br />
[[Category:Products]]<br />
[[Category:Water conditioners]]</div>Quatermasshttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Dr._Tim_Hovanec&diff=71331Dr. Tim Hovanec2012-02-10T16:06:13Z<p>Quatermass: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{stub}}<br />
<br />
This man discovered the correct two species of nitrifying bacteria used in aquariums to break down ammonia in nitrite and then [[nitrite]] into [[nitrate]] and the invention of the BIOWheel® filter device.<br />
<br />
He is the inventor of [[BioSpira]] (now called [[SafeStart]]) and the [http://www.marineland.com/MLCatalog.aspx?taxid=1984658 BIOWheel]®, when employed by the Aquaria Group of companies, including [http://www.marineland.com/MarineLand.home Marineland Labs], and later went on to develop [[One and Only]], a bacteria seeding bottle.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Home page==<br />
*[http://www.drtimsaquatics.com/ Dr. Tim's Aquatics]<br />
*[http://web.archive.org/web/20040804205420/www.marineland.com/index2.asp Marineland Labs in 2004] (Archive link)<br />
*[http://web.archive.org/web/20050307102048/www.marineland.com/drtims_Currvitae.asp Curriculum vitae in 2004 for Dr. Timothy A. Hovanec] (Archive link)<br />
<br />
*[http://web.archive.org/web/20040804224611/www.marineland.com/science/biowheel.asp The BIOWheel Story as in 2004] (Archive link)<br />
<br />
==Links==<br />
*[http://aquamaniacs.net/forum/cms_view_article.php?aid=36 An interview with Dr. Timothy A. Hovanec]<br />
*[http://www.drtimsaquatics.com/Library_Presentations/Aquarium_Lit/assets/The%20First%2030%20days.pdf The First 30 Days] (of a new aquarium) by Dr. Tim Hovanec<br />
*[http://web.archive.org/web/20070523083207/www.marineland.com/science/dr_tim/drtims.asp Dr. Tim's Library] - with lots of articles on fishkeeping (archived link May 2007)<br />
*[http://www.sportstalkcleveland.com/archives/bluezoo/bluezoo121508.mp3 Dr. Tim Hovanec talks on Bluezoo Radio] - (42mins in)<br />
<br />
[[Category:People]]</div>Quatermasshttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Free_ammonia&diff=71228Free ammonia2012-01-08T10:49:02Z<p>Quatermass: too many mmmms ;)</p>
<hr />
<div>#REDIRECT [[Ammonia]]<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]</div>Quatermasshttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Bulldog_Pleco&diff=71186Bulldog Pleco2012-01-02T10:59:14Z<p>Quatermass: </p>
<hr />
<div>*[[Chaetostoma milesi]]<br />
*[[Chaetostoma thomsoni]]<br />
*[[Chaetostoma formosae]]<br />
<br />
<br />
==Reference==<br />
*[http://www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk/content.php?sid=4639 PFK magazine]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Plecos - Common names]] <br />
[[Category:Catfish - Common names]]<br />
[[Category:Fish - Common names (Freshwater)]]</div>Quatermasshttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=US_G.&diff=70931US G.2011-11-23T16:40:26Z<p>Quatermass: </p>
<hr />
<div>'''Short hand for U.S. Gallon.'''<br />
<br />
The U.S. liquid gallon is legally defined as 231 cubic inches, and is equal to exactly 3.785411784 litres or about 0.13368 cubic feet.<br />
<br />
*When discussing gallons, we have to specify the country it is used as other countries may use a different volume. For example the imperial UK gallon is legally defined as 4.54609 litres. (In Britain the litre is the most commonly used measurement of volume of a liquid. But some industries in Britain may use the UK gallon even if it is obsolete. But the law states they must also state it in litres.)<br />
<br />
*See [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gallon Wikipedia]<br />
<br />
<br />
On this web site we use a conversion template which automatically takes a Writer's US gallon and expresses it in litres with the US Gallon in brackets. i.e. <nowiki>{{gal|10}} or {{L|37.9}}</nowiki> which becomes "{{gal|10}}". This makes it easy to express both types.<br />
<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]</div>Quatermasshttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=US_G&diff=70930US G2011-11-23T16:39:50Z<p>Quatermass: Redirected page to US G.</p>
<hr />
<div>#REDIRECT [[US_G.]]</div>Quatermasshttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Hydrogen_peroxide&diff=70928Hydrogen peroxide2011-11-23T16:10:32Z<p>Quatermass: /* As an algae killer */</p>
<hr />
<div>__TOC__<br />
== About Hydrogen Peroxide ==<br />
[[Image:H2O2 Solution.jpg|right|thumb|Typical cost £0.80 UK]]<br />
'''Hydrogen peroxide''' (H2O2) is a very pale blue liquid which appears colourless in a dilute solution, slightly more viscous than water. It is a weak acid. It has very strong oxidizing properties and is therefore a powerful bleaching agent that has found uses as a disinfectant.<br />
<br />
Even though it is a powerful and highly toxic chemical it can have a use in the aquarium if used in low dosages and with great care.<br />
<br />
When added to water it rapidly breaks down into water and oxygen. <br />
<br />
*It is sensitive to light and rapidly breaks down in its presence.<br />
<br />
The concentration this liquid is supplied by your chemist shop is usually around 2 to 9%.<br />
Though check with the instructions on your bottle. You'll need to know the concentration!<br />
<br />
*If you are using 3% hydrogen peroxide, each 1 ml added per 30 Litres (8 US gallons) will increase total peroxide levels by 1&nbsp;mg/l. 15&nbsp;mg/l per 48 hours is thought by many to be a fish safe concentration.<br />
<br />
<br />
==As an oxygen aid==<br />
You can purchase small white tablets which are a dilute solution of H2O2 and when the tablets dissolve they release oxygen to the water. This is intended to aid the transport of fish in bags of water. <br />
<br />
Alternatively drip liquid H2O2 into the tank in very low concentrations. Typically 0.05 times your tank volume in litres assuming 3% solution. So a 60L tank would need 0.05 × 60L = 3ml per 12 hours.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable" style="text-align:center" border=1<br />
|+ '''Levels of H2O2 as an Oxygen aid per 12 hours'''<br />
!% solution!!× per litre!!× per US gallon!!example {{L|60}} tank!!example {{L|250}} tank<br />
|-<br />
|3%||0.05||0.187<br />
|style="background:#C3FDB8" |3ml<br />
|style="background:#C3FDB8"|12.5ml<br />
|-<br />
|6%||0.025||0.0935<br />
|style="background:#C3FDB8" |1.5ml<br />
|style="background:#C3FDB8"|6ml<br />
|-<br />
|9%||0.016||0.062<br />
|style="background:#C3FDB8"|1ml<br />
|style="background:#C3FDB8"|4ml<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
*These cautious levels should be safe for nitrifying bacteria, fish, frogs and invertebrates.<br />
<br />
*In extreme emergencies a five times dose (0.25 instead of 0.05 per litre)<ref>The Tropical Fishlopaedia book by Mary Bailey and Peter Burgess (on page 314) say 1-2ml of 3% solution per {{L|10}} (5-10ml per {{gal|10}}) can be used as a oxygen aid. (ISBN 1-86054-102-X)</ref> can be performed to save gasping fish. Though you may get some damage to your nitrifying bacteria or invertebrates.<br />
<br />
==As an algae killer==<br />
Concentrations of around 60ml of 3% H2O2 (30ml of 6%, 15ml of 9%) in a {{L|250}} tank directly applied (usually via a syringe) slowly over 5 minutes onto a clump of algae will kill it and then rapidly be diluted and converted into harmless oxygen and water. Observe the results and wait 48 hours before applying any more. Plants may be effected. <br />
<br />
*Over dosing will kill snails, shrimps, frogs, and fish!<br />
<br />
*Adding Barley Straw to ponds and aquariums has long been used to fight off algae. The straw decomposes and it is believed that it releases small quantities of ''Hydrogen peroxide'' which slowly kills the algae.<ref>[http://barleyworld.org/barleystraw/Barley%20Straw%20-%20Algae%20Control%20Lit%20Anal%20Final.pdf Barley Straw - Algae Control Literature Analysis]</ref><br />
<br />
==As an antibacterial agent==<br />
Dilute concentrations added to the tank water can kill all bacteria in the water, including the nitrifying bacteria. It will also kill all micro-organisms, good and bad.<br />
<br />
*Taking an animal with a infected wound out of the water and dabbing the area with Hydrogen peroxide can be an effective way to remove bacteria from the area and it will remove dead decaying flesh from the wound.<br />
:But you have to balance this with stressing the animal by trying to catch it, removing it from the water and applying this chemical which may or may not cause the animal pain as it destroys bacteria and dead skin alike. A stressed animal can't heal itself. Plus how do you judge the amount of time to keep the animal out of water to ensure the chemical does it's work on the skin or fin, and determine the percentage of H2O2 to use?<br />
<br />
==As an oxidising agent on organic mulm==<br />
Dilute concentrations of H2O2 applied to a tank can breakdown buildup of [[mulm]].<br />
See Oxygen aid.<br />
<br />
==As a safe alternative to using bleach==<br />
H2O2 in high levels (1 part H2O2 to 4 parts water) will perform the same job as bleach for cleaning equipment and empty aquariums. Unlike bleach it does not stick to surfaces and only breaks down into water and oxygen.<br />
<br />
*The density of 3% H2O2 is about 1,015g/L. Thus, 15ml is 15.22g, 3% of which is H2O2 (457&nbsp;mg). Added to {{gal|8}} yields 15.077&nbsp;mg/L.<br />
To achieve 15&nbsp;mg/l you want to add 1500&nbsp;mg of H2O2 which will require the addition of 49.28 ml of 3% H2O2.<br />
<br />
== References==<br />
<references/><br />
<br />
<br />
== Links ==<br />
*[[w:Hydrogen Peroxide|Wikipedia]]<br />
*[http://www.h2o2.com/ H2O2.com]<br />
*[http://www.h2o2.com/intro/msds.html MSDS Safety sheets]<br />
*[http://fish.bakerweb.biz/peroxide.html Concerns about H2O2 in an aquarium and lethal concentrations]<br />
*[http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/Algae/hydrogen-peroxide.html The Krib]<br />
*[http://www.skepticalaquarist.com/docs/health/hydper.shtml The Skeptical Aquarist - Hydrogen peroxide]<br />
*[http://www.malawicichlidhomepage.com/aquainfo/algae_peroxide.html Fighting the algae with Hydrogen Peroxide]<br />
*[http://www.gpodio.com/h2o2.asp Eliminating Algae with H2O2]<br />
*[http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/health/8078525.stm BBC News] - Natural bleach 'key to healing'<br />
<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]<br />
[[Category:Chemical treatments]]</div>Quatermasshttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Cryptocoryne_Rot&diff=70868Cryptocoryne Rot2011-11-15T20:17:14Z<p>Quatermass: /* Why do the leaves rot? */ grammar correction</p>
<hr />
<div>{{orphan|date=December 2009}}<br />
<br />
==What is it?==<br />
'''Cryptocoryne Rot''', '''Crypto Melt''' or '''Crypto Rot''' is when plant leaves in the Cryptocoryne genus appear to 'meltdown' or rot.<br />
<br />
Often the edges of the leaves seem to appear as if snails or a fish are eating the edges. As the disease continues the whole leaf or plant may rot away and appear to die off.<br />
<br />
==What causes this?==<br />
This family is sensitive to sudden changes to its environment. So large water changes or adding a lot of fertiliser, sudden changes in lighting levels or temperature can cause this to happen.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Why do the leaves rot?==<br />
This family of plants are used to an environment which contains plenty of [[ammonium]] and the plant is not evolved to use [[nitrate]] as a fuel. So they hold the nitrate internally as stored nutrients within the leaves.<ref>The book, '''[http://barronseduc.stores.yahoo.net/0764114409.html The Natural Aquarium handbook]''' by Ines Scheurmann. Page 65, ISBN 0-7641-1440-9. Published by Barron's 2nd Ed. 2000AD. 1st issued in 1985. Original German title - Das GU Aquarienbuch.</ref><br />
<br />
When there is a sudden large water change in the aquarium, a change in light levels or altering fertiliser in the substrate, the plants are shocked due to the sudden need for extra nutrients and so they release their stored nutrients, which includes the unwanted nitrate, and these nitrogen compounds poison the leaves causing the rotting appearance. If allowed to continue it can kill the entire plant.<br />
<br />
==How to prevent the plant dying?==<br />
If you continue to provide enough plant nutrients, CO2, adequate lighting, etc. then whilst the leaves may die off, the plant will regrow new leaves.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Gallery==<br />
<gallery><br />
Image:Cryptocoryne wendtill green.jpg|''Cryptocoryne wendtill'' 'green' with Crypto Rot<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
==References==<br />
<references/><br />
<br />
==Links==<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]<br />
[[Category:Glossary - Plants]]</div>Quatermasshttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Crypto_Melt&diff=70867Crypto Melt2011-11-15T20:14:52Z<p>Quatermass: </p>
<hr />
<div>#REDIRECT[[Cryptocoryne Rot]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Glossary - Plants]]<br />
[[Category:Plants]]</div>Quatermasshttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Blue_Green_Algae&diff=70594Blue Green Algae2011-10-14T09:27:25Z<p>Quatermass: Page needs serious tidying up</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Bad Format}}<br />
{{stub}}<br />
<br />
'''BGA''' is short for Blue Green [[Algae]], also known as Slime or Smear Algae. It can be seen in the typical blue-green colour but will also occur in brown.<br />
<br />
This 'algae' is actually ''Cyanobacteria'' (this bacteria obtains its energy through photosynthesis). It forms a blue-green slime that will cover everything in a very short time. If left to overrun the tank, cyanobacteria will kill plants and fish (some species of cyanobacteria produce toxins in the water so care should be taken in removing it).<br />
<br />
== Causes ==<br />
<br />
BGA is generally caused by:<br />
*Excess waste<br />
*Poor water quality<br />
*Excess light<br />
*Spores arriving in conditions allowing photosynthesis<br />
<br />
==Treatment==<br />
<br />
<!-- BGA is notoriously hard to get rid of. No animals will eat it; it can be toxic. It can fix its own nitrogen, so depriving it of macro nutrients ([[N]], [[P]] or [[K]]) through water changes usually has no effect on controlling it. Even a tiny bit left after manual removal will mean it can multiply.<br />
<br />
You can use anti-bacteria medication such as [[erythromycin]], however prolonged treatment with this can cause the BGA to form an immunity against it.<br />
<br />
Direct application with ''[[Hydrogen peroxide]]'' can kill it locally.<br />
<br />
A 48 hour blackout of the tank, with no feeding, can help also. <br />
<br />
===A report on a simple treatment that works=== --><br />
[[file:bga removal tool.jpg|thumb|150px|The basics needed to remove the stuff temporarily. That rigid tube is about 1/2 m long]]<br />
UltraLife Reef Products "Blue-Green Algae Remover" (SKU 9086910020) seems to work well - the small 0.71 oz. (20 g) vial treats {{gal|125}}, so I did two treatments of my {{gal|75}} heavily planted, moderately populated tank two days apart as allowed (one must wait another week before using it again). I had been routinely physically removing as much as I could from various plants, driftwood, filter tubes, etc., with a piece of rigid airline tubing and a bunch of flexible airline tubing as a siphon as the first step of my weekly water changes, and observed how it grew back in various places over a few days. On the date of the first treatment I did this first. For a time it seemed like nothing changed - the "bga" certainly wasn't "dying off" - but then I noticed that it also didn't seem to be growing back. I did the second treatment two days later after a water change. Two days after that, there was no regrowth whatsoever - normally by then there would be a fresh sheet all over the driftwood, and fresh globs in various other places. Anywhere I dislodged the remaining colonies, they just don't re-establish. On the "uncleaned" end of the tank, there was now nice healthy brown algae growing where once was a film of bga.<br />
<br />
This stuff seems to work. The tank no longer has that "bga smell", also. Update, by six days after treatment I noticed that some "unremoved" bga on an unscrubbed tank end was gone. Nine days after the first dose it is all gone, the last bits seemingly disappearing overnight.<br />
<br />
It is ironic that a freshwater-only product is being sold by a company with "reef" in their name.<br />
<br />
===Water testing===<br />
Water quality testing is recommended during treatment, since depending on how much is left when treatment begins, a fair amount of decaying bacteria will be stressing your filtration. I saw no effects on my fish or plants, but one should be prepared for "emergency" dilution via a 20% water change just in case, likewise be prepared for filter media cleaning. The pH remained stable at 7.4 in my case. I think removing as much as possible prior to treatment should be recommended, since it is not that difficult.<br />
<br />
===Active ingredients===<br />
The active ingredient(s) are unknown and unpublished, so I cannot ascertain legality is some jurisdictions, but I was readily able to buy this online from theaquariumguys.com for about ten US dollars (just a couple of euros) plus shipping. If I find what the product uses I will report here.<br />
<br />
==Gallery==<br />
<gallery><br />
Image:Cyanobacteria1.jpg|BGA in front of glass<br />
Image:Cyanobacteria3.jpg|BGA growing on plants<br />
File:bga on driftwood.jpg|A lovely culture on some driftwood<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Links ==<br />
*[[w:Blue Green Algae|Wikipedia]]<br />
*[http://www.ucmp.berkeley.edu/bacteria/cyanointro.html UCMP Article]<br />
*[http://www.brphycsoc.org/documents/DurhamAdvancedcourse08BPSadvert.pdf Durham University Article]<br />
*[http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/Algae/cyanobacteria.html The Krib on Cyanobacteria]<br />
*[http://www.fishlore.com/aquariummagazine/apr08/cyanobacteria.htm Fishlore - Tackling BGA]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]<br />
[[Category:Algae]]<br />
[[Category:Bacteria]]</div>Quatermasshttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Potassium_hydroxide&diff=70444Potassium hydroxide2011-09-18T20:27:01Z<p>Quatermass: </p>
<hr />
<div>'''Potassium hydroxide''' (KOH) is a white pellet, very alkaline substance used to raise pH without altering the GH or KH of the water in an aquarium. It rapidly dissolves in water to supply potassium (which is used by plants) and hydroxide ions which combines with H+ ions to produce H2O (water) so increasing the pH.<br />
<br />
==Take care==<br />
*When added to water it will react by producing a lot of heat. So care must be taken never to add it directly to the aquarium.<br />
*This chemical is harmful if swallowed or will burn if it comes in contact with the skin.<br />
<br />
*Never adjust the pH by more than 0.4 in 24 hours for an existing aquarium with livestock. Otherwise [[pH shock]] may result.<br />
<br />
==Other names==<br />
Caustic potash, Potash lye, Potassia, Potassium hydrate.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Availability==<br />
*Commonly available on eBay and in various gardening shops.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Links==<br />
*Wikipedia - [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Potassium_hydroxide Potassium hydroxide]<br />
*eBay - [http://www.ebay.com/sch/items/__potassium+hydroxide Potassium hydroxide]</div>Quatermasshttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Activated_Carbon&diff=70443Activated Carbon2011-09-18T20:25:30Z<p>Quatermass: /* Links */</p>
<hr />
<div>__TOC__<br />
== About Activated Carbon ==<br />
'''Activated Carbon''' ([[AC]]) is a [[w:Charcoal|charcoal]] substance which is used in the aquarium to remove chemicals from water. <br />
<br />
<br />
It is often supplied as a black sponge or as small black beads which are used in filters to remove certain chemicals from the water.<br />
<br />
Activated [[carbon]] is made of either coal, wood or nut shells (coconut, etc.) charcoal.<br />
For use in the aquarium, only coal or wood based charcoal is used; coconut based charcoal is used for cleaning chemicals from gases.<br />
<br />
The sponge or granules are typically placed as the last stage in a [[filter]], and manufacturers recommend replacing it after 2–4 weeks.<br />
<br />
==What does it do==<br />
Sellers of activated carbon are often vague about the benefits. Terms like 'clean' or 'polish' the water are often stated without actually saying what it does. Its purpose is to remove chemicals that colour the water, or create odors.<br />
<br />
It removes some smelly organic gases like ''[[hydrogen sulphide]]'' from the water, absorbs [[chlorine]] from water, or if your tap water contains [[chloramine]], it removes the chlorine and leaves ammonia behind. Also small amounts of [[chelated]] [[copper]], [[mercury]] and [[iron]] may be removed and this may be of limited use.<br />
<br />
Once very popular in the 1980s, its use is better understood in the 21st century and the benefits of constant use are now questioned. <br />
<br />
It is probably overused by the beginner as it is commonly supplied with new filters and aquariums by manufacturers by default and users are often advised to replace it every month. This is probably a needless monthly expense if the tank is new and the tap water is already pre-treated with a water conditioner. Since carbon adsorbs organic chemicals on its surface, a good rinse and "grind" should refresh a batch for far longer than the manufacturer would like you to think.<br />
<br />
*Users should remove the carbon from the filter if adding medical liquids or water conditioner liquids such as [[Amquel]] to the tank as it may absorb them.<br />
<br />
*Constant use of activated carbon is not advised for aquariums with plants.<br />
<br />
==What it doesn't do==<br />
The material will not normally remove much ammonia from the water (It removes a little <ref>[http://www3.interscience.wiley.com/journal/117905145/abstract?CRETRY=1&SRETRY=0 Absorption of ammonia on activated carbon from aqueous solutions]</ref>). However there are several brands of AC on the market that add a special coating of [[zeolite]] which act as a ammonia absorber. These types should not be placed within a maturing tank not yet [[cycled]].<br />
<br />
==How long does it take to work?==<br />
Activated carbon quality varies enormously, there are cheap and expensive products on sale all claiming to work wonders. But some studies (see [http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/Fertilizer/keslar-carbon.html The Krib Keslar article]) show that in fact 90% of the adsorption work of a piece of carbon in a good water flow in fact occurs within the first 48 hours and after 100 hours (4 days) it can be removed. Higher quality carbon can effectivly remove contaminates from aquarium water for up-to four weeks <ref name="aquaticcommunity">[http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aquarium/carbon.php Carbon and aquariums] - Aquatic Community</ref><br />
<br />
==Can I leave it in the tank==<br />
Activated carbon will not leak the chemicals back out regardless of how long you leave it in the water. However statements by companies like [[Seachem]] do say that all forms of activated carbon leak out amounts of [[phosphate]]. What differs between products is how much of this amount. This may contribute to the development of [[algae]] in your tank.<br />
<br />
Of course the carbon foam rapidly becomes home to your biological nitrifying bacteria filter. In a new tank in the middle of [[nitrogen cycle]] the carbon should never be removed for at least 40 days to ensure the cycle is fully established.<br />
<br />
==Can I recharge it==<br />
Yes and no. Once activated carbon has adsorbed chemicals, it should be thrown away.<br />
<br />
It is possible to heat activated carbon to 200°C for 30 minutes. But this will only destroy the organic elements it has absorbed. Any metals will still be present.<br />
<br />
It is possible to get a bit more life out of it by washing thoroughly (in water only) and physically grinding it a bit. This removes bacterial colonies that have grown and block the water's access to the carbon, and also opens fresh surfaces on the carbon particles.<br />
<br />
==Carbon quality==<br />
The quality of the carbon is proportional to the of surface area exposed to the water flow. Higher quality carbon has a smaller structure. It is possible to crush lower quality carbon granules to produce more surface area. The resulting fragments should be washed thoroughly to remove any carbon dust that could be blown into your tank.<br />
<br />
The following video details an experiment showing how quickly lower quality carbon is used when compared to the slightly more expensive high quality carbon.<br />
<youtube>oVpRGzerJFI</youtube><br />
<div style="clear:both;"></div><br />
<br />
==Pictures==<br />
<gallery><br />
Image:Activated carbon2.jpg|You can tell if the foam contains carbon if you rub it with your fingers. Some black soot will be given off.<br />
Image:Activated carbon1.jpg|Typical beads. About 1cm long<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
==Other types==<br />
*See also [[GAC|Granular Activated Carbon (GAC)]] or [[PAC|Powdered Activated Carbon (PAC)]]<br />
<br />
==References==<br />
<references/><br />
<br />
== Links ==<br />
*[http://www.seachem.com/Library/Articles/Carbon_Interview.pdf Leo Morin, Ph.D. (Seachem) talks on Activated Carbon, it's uses and how to choose a good brand]<br />
*[[w:Activated carbon|Wikipedia]]<br />
*[http://www.thekrib.com/Chemistry/carbon.html The Krib on Activated carbon]<br />
*[http://web.archive.org/web/20040209120648/http://www.tomgriffin.com/aquamag/filterbasics2.html Tom Griffin article (this is an archived link, so it is slow to load. But worthwhile reading)]<br />
*[http://www.mikexstudios.com/archives/2006/12/06/analyzing-the-effectiveness-of-brita%C2%AE-water-filters/ Analysing the Effectiveness of Brita® Water Filters - A study on the effectiveness of a domestic water filter using activated carbon]<br />
*[http://web.archive.org/web/20030629040810/http://marineland.com/articles/16ActivatedCarb.asp Activated Carbon] by [[Timothy A. Hovanec]]<br />
*[http://web.archive.org/web/20030702232030/marineland.com/articles/17RevisActCarb.asp Revisiting Activated Carbon] by [[Timothy A. Hovanec]]<br />
*[http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2008/2/aafeature1 Granular Activated Carbon, Part 2: Modelling of Operational Parameters for Dissolved Organic Carbon Removal] from Marine Aquaria<br />
*[http://www.hallman.org/filter/gac.html Overview of Activated Carbon in the Marine Tank] by James R. Layton, chemist for Aquarium Pharmaceuticals.<br />
<br />
==Commercial products==<br />
*[http://www.seachem.com/products/product_pages/MatrixCarbon.html Seachem - MatrixCarbon]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]</div>Quatermasshttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Iron&diff=70439Iron2011-09-18T20:17:21Z<p>Quatermass: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{stub}}<br />
'''Iron (Fe)'''<br />
<br />
Iron is the most abundant metal on Earth and it is essential to all known organisms and therefore aquatic plants require it in order to grow.<br />
<br />
<br />
You can find out the level of iron in your aquarium water by using a iron Test Kit.<br />
This measures the amount of iron (in mg/l) in a sample of water and around 0.2&nbsp;mg/l is generally required.<br />
<br />
<br />
However iron is available in two forms - insoluble iron (ferric Fe+3) and soluble iron (ferrous Fe+2). The plants need the soluble type.<br />
<br />
Usually [[Chelated]] ferrous iron is added to aquariums in the form of liquid fertilisers.<br />
You can buy these ready made fertilisers (for example Seachems Flourish) from any pet store or you can purchase the dry components and mix up the powder with RO water to make your own much cheaper version.<br />
<br />
<br />
==pH==<br />
Iron is only soluble in water if the [[pH]] is less than 8. So if you are measuring the level of iron in your tank. Measure the pH too. It may be the pH is too high.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Links ==<br />
*[[w:Iron|Wikipedia]]<br />
*[http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/aug2002/chem.htm Chemistry and the Aquarium]<br />
*[http://www.aquaessentials.co.uk/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=145_146 Typical dry fertilisers available from the UK]<br />
*[http://www.seachem.com/products/planted.html Seachem fertilisers]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]<br />
[[Category:Plant food]]<br />
[[Category:Glossary - Plants|Iron]]</div>Quatermasshttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=KOH&diff=70437KOH2011-09-18T19:55:35Z<p>Quatermass: Redirected page to Potassium hydroxide</p>
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<div>#REDIRECT [[Potassium hydroxide]]<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]</div>Quatermasshttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=KN03&diff=70436KN032011-09-18T19:55:14Z<p>Quatermass: Redirected page to Potassium nitrate</p>
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<div>#REDIRECT [[Potassium nitrate]]<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]</div>Quatermass